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/halp/ - Technical Support

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Memory upgrade problems 15/03/22(Sun)14:43 No. 21685 ID: d94049 [Reply]

File 142703179164.png - (826.61KB , 800x600 , emi.png )

So, gents: I'm trying to do a memory upgrade on a fairly old machine. It's Fujitsu Siemens Amilo pi 3620A; OEM shit of the lowest grade.

It has ms-7504vp-pv motherboard with nForce 630i chipset. Bios is by AMI, version 3.0L according to CPU-Z, listed "2.61" in the setup menu itself.

The board has only two DDR2 slots equipped with two 2Gb/333MHz Hynix sticks. I bought two 4Gb/400MHz sticks by Kingston replace them, and as it could be foreseen, ran into problems.

Why I'm writing you is that my system does not outright deny the chips, instead it will become unstable.

- With both sticks in, the system wont boot outright.
- When memory clock is manually set into 333MHz (667MHz in the menu), the machine will boot but Windows will give blue screen usually during startup, or quickly after. Memtest86 will show large number of errors.
- With single stick at 400MHz the system will boot but will randomly lock sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes after an hour or two.
- With single stick at 333MHz the system is stable. Both sticks also pass memtest86 individually.

So, what would you suggest? I have rounded up the possible causes to four, from most to least possible:
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.

16 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 15/03/26(Thu)18:48 No. 21706 ID: 22684d


Thanks, man. Plenty of keywords to google with.

Given the the sticks fail memtest86 only after some time at random pattern test, do you thing 630i actually tries to drive them (with address width double the buses are rated for?), or is there some other things that gives the impression of "almost kinda working"?

Anonymous 15/04/06(Mon)23:51 No. 21714 ID: db923a

As a little epilogua to this saga:

I had a chance to test these sticks on a machine that claims to actually support 4gb ddr2 per slot (16gb total), but couldn't get either of them to work at all. So that's that, picky hardware.

Anonymous 15/04/08(Wed)06:41 No. 21716 ID: 10d6c2

As I said, composite DIMMs need to be addressed differently than a non-composite DIMM of the same size.

I would beat whoever sold you those DIMMs about the head vigorously with a large purple horse dildo until they refund your money.

They know damn well that they only work with servers and workstations and not consumer desktops. And if they don't know then they need to find another line of work.

Disk image softwere for Windows Anonymous 15/03/01(Sun)05:30 No. 21676 ID: a13399 [Reply]

File 142518420868.gif - (243.34KB , 500x332 , n0lahlU2vE1qedblno1500.gif )

What is a good free program to make disc images out of a hard drive for back up?
I was told to use Drive Snapshot but its not free.

2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 15/03/14(Sat)12:15 No. 21682 ID: d47e5c

the ultimate boot CD has a whole bunch of them
download the ISO and burn it
then boot from it
it's under HDD, then disk cloning (there should be around 6 or 7 choices

Anonymous 15/03/26(Thu)19:35 No. 21707 ID: 22684d

This. It's simpler to do with the disk unmounted, anyway. Just dd if=/dev/sdb of=/mywindowsbackup.img

(I think sda would be whatever the media the live linux was booted with?)

Anonymous 15/04/07(Tue)17:25 No. 21715 ID: f03305


The culture is different, I give you that, but all that is needed is mostly there, today.

XP and 2000 were a little disappointing in that regard but as the admins cried to Microsoft "we need this stuff", the tools have trickled down to the newer versions of Windows from the server side.

I believe the proper way to do it from the prompt is to creates a system repair disk with 'recimage' and use 'robocopy' to back up the files.

This is for uniquely installed machines, for machines installed from an image the system backup will be from the image.

Correct or forest?

Building PC Anonymous 14/09/30(Tue)13:09 No. 21451 ID: 8badc8 [Reply]

File 141207535987.jpg - (36.33KB , 400x462 , Apfelbaum.jpg )

Hey guys i was just asking which is the best way to build a computer?
All under 1000 bucks is fine (especially for games)
pic unrelated

3 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 14/10/01(Wed)00:15 No. 21455 ID: 10d6c2

Buy parts, put parts together, enjoy coverage from individual part warranties.

Or buy prebuilt system from tier 1 manufacturer (e.g. not CyberpowerPC), and have someone to call when shit stops working.

Anonymous 15/03/30(Mon)21:46 No. 21708 ID: a1d58f

It is pretty simple and self explanatory to build a PC.

Things you will need to get up and running:


Things you will want:
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.

Anonymous 15/03/31(Tue)00:18 No. 21710 ID: 10d6c2

I'm sure after 6 months OP is still waiting with bated breath for a response.

Anonymous 15/02/23(Mon)23:05 No. 21670 ID: b4f861 [Reply]

File 142472913121.jpg - (2.44MB , 2432x4320 , 1424722118470-1589004030.jpg )

Is it possible to create a stored procedure that will pull data from an external hard drive and restore that data to my database? If so how can I do this?

Anonymous 15/02/27(Fri)05:17 No. 21672 ID: 10d6c2

Assuming you're scanning a directory or pulling information from a file periodically, what you probably want is a combination of a cron'd shell script, that actually imports the data into the database, and a stored procedure, that gets triggered by the import (or is scheduled to occur shortly after the import) to manipulate the imported data.

Unless you're talking about periodically restoring the entire contents of the database from a copy that exists on the external drive. Then it'd probably just take a shell script to shut down the database instance, restore the data to the appropriate tables, then start the instance again. Or something similar. Backup/Restore procedures vary greatly between databases. PostgreSQL won't use the same script as Oracle.

Reaver on Kali Linux Anonymous 15/02/24(Tue)05:46 No. 21671 ID: 13bdf3 [Reply]

File 142475319385.jpg - (870.11KB , 1698x1131 , computer-hacker.jpg )

Why am I getting this on Reaver:

"WARNING: Failed to associate with ##:##:##:##:##:##" (bssid)

Reaver worked for me about a year ago flawlessly. I've searched everywhere but can't find a clue. I'm using an external Atheros usb card that I know is supported.

Anonymous 15/02/18(Wed)14:56 No. 21665 ID: fd304b [Reply]

File 142426781095.png - (400.00KB , 635x475 , rsz_przechwycenie_obrazu_ekranu_-_18022015_-_12512.png )

I installed pcsx2 1.3.0-0 on Xubuntu 14.10 x64
The game screen looks like this and the audio is either glitchy (TimeStretch synch mode) or skipping a lot (no synch mode) or demonic buzzing (when I try changing some other settings like interpolation). I have a nvidia GT440. I also have no idea how Ubuntu works because I haven't used it that much. Halp?

Anonymous 15/02/18(Wed)18:32 No. 21666 ID: d0406c

are you sure you didn't download a fucking corruptor

Anonymous 15/02/18(Wed)19:33 No. 21667 ID: fd304b

nope, this game worked fine on Windows

Anonymous 15/02/20(Fri)10:55 No. 21668 ID: 4ead99

I haven't used a non-server (as in non-terminal based) version of Ubuntu in ages, but last time I did I had to take an additional step to install "proprietary" (read: closed-source) software, which is a good way of describing Nvidia's entire driver architecture.

Until you do that, no hardware acceleration is available, so the video card is running in an extremely slow frame buffer mode. If a software package expects acceleration to be present then you can end up with garbled video display. Not sure that's what's going on in your case, but since you don't know Ubuntu I figure that may be a good place to start.

Anonymous 15/02/13(Fri)20:23 No. 21658 ID: c7633c [Reply]

File 142385539318.jpg - (13.58KB , 230x219 , image.jpg )

Once again technollogy has failed me. im currently on vacation, took some pics with my digital camera and they dont show up on the camera or in my laptop. Theres a filesize but no image to be seen except for one. Any chance of recovering these pics from the microsd?

2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 15/02/13(Fri)22:10 No. 21661 ID: db8519

Have you image dumped the card yet? Could be the card, could be the images, further investigation is needed.

Post a couple of the *.jpegs in this thread (the working one and 3-4 corrupted ones should be enough), I'll tinker with them and see if I can get any results for you, it might just be corrupted headers.

Anonymous 15/02/14(Sat)21:39 No. 21663 ID: af9c81

Its definetly the card. Today all photos were gone, so I cant send you anything but thanks anyway. I guess I could try a recovery software when I get back from my vacations, if anyone has any recommendations Im all ears my only requirements are that its free and open source.

Thank god I brought some other sds.

It was an old samsung 1gb microsd that came with a cellphone. Still I thought this little shits were more reliable...

Anonymous 15/02/15(Sun)18:24 No. 21664 ID: 4ead99

You can try using PhotoRec, it'll scan the entire card for images.


More than likely new images overwrote old images so you're looking at some data loss. Cameras are notorious for completely fucking up memory cards, if it has a problem reading a card just take it out and put another one in, then use a computer to repair the card having problems. What you've experienced is the inevitable result of expecting the camera to fix whatever problem it created in the first place.

Updating iOS without signing on to ap store - possible? Anonymous 14/12/28(Sun)14:24 No. 21608 ID: d8f339 [Reply]

File 141977306940.jpg - (12.39KB , 233x246 , apple-rotten.jpg )

I just got a factory reset 1pad 1 from a friend and was wondering how I could install an updated iOS without going to the app store. I have no idea how to operate this thing it's very simplicity befuddles me.
I'm a PC user and the box contains the warranty and the "don't drop in water" instructions but that's it. I get that I can download the updates via my computer but my question involves the iTunes/Apple store.
As I understand one of the methods up update/install the ios is to log onto the itunes store and go from there. you can update it to ios 5 OR you can jailbreak it and update to iOS 7. I know you may not know this stuff but I'm asking. Does logging into the istore allow the thing to scan your system? Can it look for "illegally downloaded music " on my HD? or do I have to give it permissions? Also do you know if iOS 5 is that much clunkier than 7? If the Apple/Itunes store can do that bullshit is there another way I can update the OS - and how?

Also, re: setting up networks.
My router accepts devices based on MAC address but the thing wants to set up connections. Do I just update via the cable THEN find out the MAC addy and add it?

8 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 15/01/04(Sun)07:48 No. 21626 ID: 48a816

Libertarians: Yes they really are that dumb.

Anonymous 15/01/09(Fri)00:53 No. 21638 ID: 10d6c2

When you first open iTunes, or depending on the version one of the last steps of the installer, it will prompt you to scan your drives to "organize" your music. Skip this step.

Organize in Apple lingo means move to the iTunes Music folder that lives under My Documents or Music, depending on what version of Windows you're running. Even if you don't mind having iTunes scan your music, shoving files around onto a drive that likely doesn't contain enough space to hold them all is likely A Bad Thing (and don't expect Apple to check to see if there's enough free space on your boot drive before starting to move data to it, either).

If it doesn't scan your music files, it doesn't know about any music files. That being said, I've had hundreds of illegitimate MP3s in my iTunes library for over 10 years. If the RIAA's jackbooted thugs haven't broken down my door after all this time, I don't think they'll do jack shit to you.

Anonymous 15/02/02(Mon)04:58 No. 21656 ID: d8f339



Choosing a mechanical keyboard Anonymous 14/11/02(Sun)16:07 No. 21511 ID: 0ce1c4 [Reply]

File 141494084640.png - (1.67MB , 800x540 , corsairk95rgb.png )

Hello /halp/

I come to you for help and advice regarding one important question: Choosing a mechanical keyboard

for the longest time I have been using cheap shite keyboards for the longest time but I have recently decided to change that

What I'm looking for is a Mechanical keyboard that will last me a long time, I plan on using it for Gaming and everyday typing

The keyboard has to have:

- Good mechanical switches that make it easy to type and use, I'm thinking of going with Cherry red
- Back-lit keys
- Sturdy and solid construction

Right now I'm considering getting the new Corsair Gaming K95 RGB keyboard that recently came out, it looks very nice overall, there is however one thing that is bothering me is that the previous models of K70 and K95 seem to have a lot of problems with dead back-lit LED keys
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.

2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 14/11/06(Thu)00:05 No. 21522 ID: 10d6c2

If you find yourself wanting to never buy another keyboard for the rest of your life, buy a model m.

Anonymous 15/01/30(Fri)18:25 No. 21650 ID: 68371c

I can just imagine how many converters us Model M users will have in 20 years. PS/2 to USB to USB type C to whatever the new peripheral port is.

Anonymous 15/01/30(Fri)21:39 No. 21651 ID: 10d6c2

Or you could just buy a new buckling spring keyboard with a USB port.


Left side of screen flickers Anonymous 15/01/27(Tue)20:25 No. 21647 ID: 4fb06b [Reply]

File 142238670017.jpg - (215.86KB , 1175x710 , Mary-Poppins-Disney.jpg )

Dear /halp/!

This morning my win-desktop was acting up during the boot process, so I gave it a hard reset.

On the second start the rigth page of the screen became black and the left side was like a window into something bigger. There was this message tab about the computer repairing something. But I couldn't read it all, I had to drag it from side to side.

Finally it started up properly. But now the left side of the screen was flickering. I tried to change resolution etc, but it still flickers.

I thought it was Explorer-specific, so I ran a game in Steam. But the left side still flickered.

Screen & graphics card:

Samsung S23B350 1920 x 1080
ATI Radeon HD 5450 512 MB

Anonymous 15/01/27(Tue)21:04 No. 21648 ID: 4fb06b

Hmm... Maybe it was temporarily damaged because of a potentially different Hz-setting. The flickering has disappeared now. I set my screen to not use other settings than 60 Hz.

Anonymous 15/01/28(Wed)03:38 No. 21649 ID: 10d6c2

Assuming this is an LCD panel, more than likely part of your display has failed due to a cold solder joint. When the display warms up the heat expands the connection and a stronger connection gets made, causing the problem to go away. When the display cools (turned off, or after the display is put to sleep, for an extended period), however, the problem should reoccur.

This could also be a similar problem related to your graphics card, assuming the connection is made over DVI (or HDMI) and not VGA, but it's far more common to occur in the display than the card. If it's connected via VGA then it's unlikely to be the graphics card, since the screen is drawn from left to right, top to bottom, so VGA problems tend to occur horizontally not vertically (top or bottom, not left or right). These are mildly-educated guesses though, next time it occurs try connecting something else to the display and see if the problem follows the display or it's tied to a single system. "Something else" can be literally anything that can be plugged into the display that should display video - video game console, DVD player, etc.

You certainly shouldn't try to drive an LCD panel at anything over than 60Hz, assuming you don't have a 120Hz panel, in which case it shouldn't be driven at anything besides 60Hz or 120Hz.

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