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In dire need of help. Tried asking /r/, but phone was being too slow.
Using manjaro Linux. Last night I did a long wipe of a flash drive (not one containing the operating system. Just one that I was formatting for storage use as a normal pen drive). Later in the night, after that had been closed out, I tried to switch to lxdm. After running a command I do not recall, I rebooted to see it boot into lxdm so I could start using a wider variety of window managers, but alas, I got this. After as much fiddling as I could muster, I was left helpless. Stuck With 3g data, no live USB, a broken disk drive, no extra computer, and no wired internet, I came to this page as a last-ditch effort. Please help. (manjaro 64 bit installed on a lenovo ideapad y510-p. Was using gdm but tried to switch to lxdm and fecked self)
looks like your machine was relying on the flash drive to boot. good luck dude
Update: Installed Manjaro i3. With the help of a buddy's computer. Just overwriting new /home/ with old one. There's a hell of a learning curve, but it's much faster.
Well OP, I was right.
The dependency of the OS was on your flash drive. Because it was dependent on it and you ran a command on it, you happened to mess up the OS as it was dependent on it.
Watch what you do on that drive if you're dependent on it.
So I'm starting to buy stuff to build my first computer, and I'm realizing I know less than zero about this. My question is how do you tell if a graphics card is good? I looked online and all I've learned is GDDR is better than DDR by like x4. Is there an easy way to tell if card X will run game Y? The only goals I really have are Bioshock Infinite on max and Shadow of Mordor at all.
Right, let me explain. The PSU was originally 135$, on sale for 100$, with a 20% percent off coupon dropping it to 80, and a 30$ mail in rebate, making a 135$ PSU all of 50$. When I picked it up my build was still in the 640w range, so I'm future proofing for five years from now when I upgrade.
The deal with the 100$ case? It has everything I'm looking for, plenty of space to maneuver, and if I do it right I'll never have to buy another case in my life.
Why 2Tb instead of 1Tb? Because it was literally a five dollar difference, and why not? I wanted two, I'm getting two.
The wireless is mandatory, because I'll be damned if I'm running a cord to the one working phone line in my house, plus it's only 30$, I make that in less than two hours at work.
As for the keyboakeyboard? It's a placeholder, of course I'm getting a better one than that.
TLDR: Go fuck yourself.
>TLDR: Go fuck yourself.
Nice to see the maturity. Enjoy that "wireless" kiddo...
So upon further review, I've learned you were right, and I had picked a wired network instead of a wireless card. I was needlessly aggressive when people were offering honest criticism. I apologize for acting like an asshat.
Pic slightly related, humility is a hard pill to swallow.
Straight to the point:
Are there any drawbacks to using DDR3-2400 memory in a motherboard that only supports 1333/1600/1866/2133?
The potential is there to overclock the memory and for some peculiar reason I'm finding 2400 cheaper on several sites, my gut instinct says go for it but a 2nd opinion is always welcome.
It's not the OS I'm having a problem with, it's Otshot. I wiped all the viruses off my computer (including Otshot) but ever since then, It pops up with a message: Unable To Load Skin.
I click OK
Then it reads: Would You Like to load to Outlook?
I click no and it goes away.
This happens on every startup on my computer.
>How do I remove it?
Backup Data, format, reinstall OS, restore data. It's the only way to be sure.
Otherwise you can just keep installing and running scans with different AV programs in the hope that one of them will detect whatever is still installed and catch it. The days of being able to depend upon a single AV program for detection and cleanup are long, long gone.
One trick is to turn the system off and let it sit in the corner for a month or two. Then turn it back on but don't connect it to a network. Use a second system to download current definitions for all the various scanners you have installed, copy them over using a flash drive, then runs scans.
With every day that passes you raise the chance of the AV company having a sample submitted to them, and since the infected system is off the network it can't auto-update to a newer version of malware(s).
Its not perfect by any means, especially if you've been downloading executables off the internet from torrent sites or the like, but without formatting it's probably your best shot.
click start menu, in search box type in msconfig, go to the startup tab, uncheck Otshot whatever the fuck that is.
, ab face.jpg
So I've got a mac here, bear with me.
I use an audio interface for both input and output audio for everything (both my pc and mac). Skype refuses to listen to anything other than input 1 for my audio interface when I use it. I'm trying to use both of my inputs at the same time. Skype is the only one being a little shit about it.
On my windows machine, I can use my headset as the same time as the interface, which fixes the problem. Or pushes it to the side. However, the mac has that single jack. My headset is the kind that has a single line in for both mic and headphones. The mac is a bitch and won't recognize the mic, while google tells me it's only for apple headphones.
TL;DR: Skype won't recognize both inputs for my audio interface
How about getting something like an iMic, that has separate line-in/line-out jacks? On the plus side the audio quality is usually tons better than everything built-in.
You should be able to set the iMic to be the default audio input and output device in the Sound system preference. That should be the device(s) that Skype latches onto like a mewling kitten.
There may be a breakout cable someplace for the audio input/output jack on your MacBook, but you're probably better off sidestepping the built-in audio completely.
That actually sounds like a good idea. I guess I'll have to get a physical adapter that just lets me bypass the mac's line completely.
I don't know how common Mac compatibility is, but my crappy little Plantronics headset came with a USB audio adapter that works PC & Mac w/o additional drivers.
Hello, I have a problem with my internet connection.
Basically, it can cap at around 1800-2000kb/s, but when i let it go that high my internet frequently disconnects and then reconnects after about 8 or 9 seconds.
To combat this, I went into my PC's network settings and set the cap to 10mbits(so it caps around 1000/1050kb/s) Now i experience no problem with disconnection at all, but I missing out on 800-1000kb/s. What could be wrong and how can i fix it? I've already had COX replace my router, and that did nothing.
Well they basically told me it had something to do with my houses wiring and they would need to re-wire the house and get permission from my landlord, and they said that might not even fix the problem. Thank you i will try my own router.
qwest/centurylink kept having routers go out, send another same model, like 5, more, routers fail. They sent routers without refreshing or removing old account setting, so an SSID would have like blablaevil whatever as an SSID.
I talked with a woman and said, we cannot keep getting these routers
that fail in a short time, that the routers had not even been reset to
defaults on most. That most had stuff
on them and were faulty from the start. So after a bit she said OK, I will have them send a new model. You will not have issues with it. And got it shortly after, brand new stable model.
Some goofball I had talked to after adding a service, tv, had a few issues with set top boxes, multiple times. He said resetting the router will break the
set top boxes, I asked or stated so what then, they were bad before I restet the router, while you yourself said to reset the router? Blabla bla he had an attitude
of the most pathetic way. They charged
like $200.00 bucks saying they came out
on a service call and found nothing wrong. Yet found two set top boxes
and the modem/router to be faulty.
The replacements did work well and work well to this day and had them refund the fake service fee with an apology and little hassle.
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.
Definitely your own router is a good idea. If it goes out though you would have to make sure you look at warranty
info through the manufacturer. Keep receipts and all. My guess the router is faulty.
If not the line running to the house could be the issue, inside, watch out so they would not charge you or even your landlord for the repair. Or at least
know that they would test the line
before it reaches the house. ISPS can be ripoffs.
You can usually find suitable routers modems at thrift stores for like 12 bucks, 3 bucks.
I got one of those shitbox ZOTAC Z-boxes from a friend and have just had it sitting around as I didn't really need it. Now my actual comp is in the shop and I started playing around with it.
Problem is I can't get it to connect to the net via the router - just directly plugged into the modem. The wireless can "see" the router but it needs to have the computers MAC address before I can even enter the password.
If I plug the cable into the router I can see (but not access ) my roommates computer (wired connection) but can't see the router or the net. In the Network Connections folder I can see a WAN Miniport (PPPOE) -disconnected the Local area connection Realtech controller which if enabled tries to identify a connection and the wireless one.
I can only see (and not connect) to the router via wireless. When it's plugged in to the router it can't see the router (but can see but also not connect to my roommates computer) otherwise I would have entered the MAC.
>it needs to have the computers MAC address
Disable MAC filtering on the router. It is an absolutely worthless security feature, since your MAC address is broadcast in the clear, for everyone within range to see. Anyone wanting to gain access to your network will just sniff MACs from data passing to/from the existing systems, clone one of their addresses onto their card, then use it to get onto your network. It will only stop 10 year olds and grandmothers, and maybe not even.
Disable this feature and you'll likely get a little further.
In case you're confused as to how to do that: use your roomate's computer for 30 seconds to configure the router.
When you plug in the Zotac over Ethernet, do you get an IP address? How about a default gateway? Subnet? If you disable IPv6 on the Zotac do you get any further?
Upon further reflection I'm going to take a wild guess and say that your router assigns good DHCP leases, with the correct default gateway, etc. to MACs it knows about and everyone else gets incorrect or partial information that doesn't let them get out to the internet.
You could have also enabled 802.1x authentication, but if you did I would hope that you would remember it, since that requires substantially more effort than simply checking a box.
I'm coming across some decent money soon, and I want to update my current graphics card so I can play games better. That, and the recent Fallout 4 update had given me a slight panic attack with me thinking my computer can't handle it.
I currently have an old Nvidia GeForce 9500 GT. What would you guess recommend would be a good upgrade, and let's just say I'm on a fixed budget with this, so where can I get one at a good deal?
Unfortunately under $100 Nvidia cards are complete shit. From what I've read the GT740 is basically a GTX 550 that's been defanged a bit. I bought one and am still absolutely shocked at just how slow the damned thing is at doing just about everything.
EVGA makes the GT740 superclocked. On benchmarks(for Linux btw) it scores like a slightly less power-hungry GTX650. Can't say I'm disappointed with it.
Although depending on your mobo, processor(I'm assuming you won't be doing a new build from scratch) and budget I'd recommend something a little more powerful. A GTX750 at the least would be nice if the price climb from the 740 superclocked isn't too big where you live.
I have one, and it's the GDDR5 version (which is supposed to be slightly faster than the DDR3 version), and compared to the 7750 I had in there before it this thing is absolute shit. It represents a good 75% drop across the board. I bought the GT740 for $100, I bought the 7750 for $100 2 years ago. Why the GT740 isn't even that decent is a mystery.
Unfortunately my new system @ work doesn't provide as much power over the PCIe slot as the old one, so I opted for one that used PCIe power. Rather than discover the new system is equally annoyed at any non-Nvidia card I opted for the 740.
For two years I had the 7750 in the old system and used it without incident so it's not a hurrdurr ATI driver issue. It's just Lenovo devolving into shittier shit. And to head off the inevitable argument on that front: nobody bigger than a mom & pop is going to build a whitebox for their employees. I build them for home, my systems there are wonderful, work with everything, but this is what I'm stuck with at work.
The 740 has two things going for it: The system no longer hard freezes in the middle of the night/weekend while I'm connected to it remotely (or even if I don't - it's an equal opportunity freezer). And I get PhysX support. Woo. I have multimonitor support, which I had under the 7750, but didn't have under the Nvidia card the system came with (I don't know why - see: Lenovo).
Not freezing and multimonitor is about all I care about, but I had to see how good the card was too. You are bearing witness to my surprise. My expectation was equivalency. The posted benchmarks were equivalency. In reality it's worse.
Some guy who is good with audio editing software can help me with this Bill Cooper radio broadcast? http://hourofthetime.com/bcmp3B/1920.mp3 If u can improve quality a bit so i can hear what Bill is saying i will love you so muck, TY !
Laptop doesn't recognize WiFi.
So a couple screws came off from the back of my asus s400c and its the 2 closest ones to the right hinge (looking from normal front view). Laptop still recognized wifi at this point.
When I tried to close the laptop without the screws, the right part of the screen along with the hinge completely unattached itself from the bottom part of the laptop.
I found the screws later and screwed them back on, laptop opened fine, turn laptop on but it said "No networks found" which isnt true because my phone is picking up the wifi.
In short, laptop doesnt recognize any wifi after the right hinge became unattached.
What's the problem and how do I go about fixing it?
Often the Wi-Fi antenna runs through the hinge and up around the display. It may have become severed, the only way to check is to open them up and look.
Yup, the antennas are normally in the display since it's usually held at or near vertical and won't be lying flat, which makes it easier to receive & send signals (partly why routers that lie flat and use integrated antennas are complete shit).
However the card is typically socketed onto the motherboard, which is under the keyboard. Some very thin cables run from the antennas in the display to the card. Simply opening & closing the lid enough will break the wires but it sounds like you either snipped them or unplugged them.
Only way to know what's going on at this point is to open it up and figure out where they are and what they look like.