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I recently decided to build my own computer for the first time, and all my parts arrived a few days ago. However, after assembly, when I boot it up, my monitor says no signal. I know the monitor works, as I'm currently using it. And for the record, I have yet to install my video card. Any suggestions?
MB: ASRock B75M-GL
CPU: I5 3350P
MEM: HyperX Blu 16GB Kit (2x8GB Modules) 1600MHz 240-pin DDR3 Non-ECC CL 10
HD: Samsung Spinpoint F4 HD322GJ/U 320GB
VGA: ASUS HD7850-DC2-2GD5
PSU: ANTEC| NEO ECO 520C 520W
If I remember correctly, that CPU doesn't have any video.
So you need a video card, duh.
I am the dumb. Much appreciated.
I can't seem to figure out what's causing it. (CPU, mobo, OS, BIOS version all in the picture)
Isn't that pictured?
Check yo BIOS's overclocking profiles to see if it's valid or not. If not, then wipe it.
He's pictured HWMonitor Pro, not HWMonitor. Pro requires you to pay them money to unlock the full features, the non-Pro version is free but lacks some features (e.g. persistent logs).
Assuming he hasn't bought Pro, it would make sense to have some sensors locked out behind a generic "TRIAL" state.
I saw an invalid overclock profile and reset it. The BSODs have stopped and HWMpro is reading the temps now.
Late last year, I built a rig with some new & some salvaged (yay, free stuff!) parts:
mobo - Asus P5K Premium, refurb (pic related)
cpu - q6600 (core 2 quad), salvaged
vga - 6770/5770 Xfire, salvaged (yes, this is legit combo)
psu - 650W Antec 80PLUS Platinum, new
2x sata, 1x ide hdd's, 4x case fans, freaking NH-C14, dvd-rw.
i flashed the latest bios, then tweaked up a mild overclock, can't remember the specifics, but it ran BOINC (4x 100% loaded cores) non-stop for over a week at 75-80*C. i'm quite new to this stuff, but i figured that was going ok.
anyway, disconnect rig from mains, go on holiday for a few weeks. get back from holiday, rig hangs on boot, at "Initializing USB Interfaces.."
unplugged all USB interfaces: mouse from rear USB & front panel from mobo headers, still hangs on boot.
Message too long. Click here to view the full text.
Definitely try connecting the absolute minimum necessary to boot and see if it works like >>19938 suggested.
If you have access to a multimeter, you can check the voltage on the motherboard battery. Alternately you can try just installing a new motherboard battery, they're only a buck or two. Be sure to clear the CMOS after installing the new battery though, more than likely your hang is due to some corrupt settings.
Alternately you can disconnect the system from power and remove the battery for >5 mins for it to completely discharge. That's the only way to resurrect my &*(@#$&*( motherboard when it has a shitfit. It laughs at the clear CMOS button.
Thanks for replying.
I've now reset the CMOS as hard as I think I can: pull mains, pull battery, set jumper, press case power button a few times, wait 1 hour, replace jumper, battery & mains.
It boots!! Thanks /halp/! I know I'm not out of the woods yet, still have to plug video cards, hdd‘s & fans back in... but at least I'm getting past "Initializing USB Controllers.." now. Will post results as I progress to fully working box.
Hokai. Everything is reassembled & functioning. Thanks for your /halp/ & support!
Now, excuse me while I del System32
j/k mint ftw
I've got a 32GB USB (3.0) flash drive from ADATA (S102 Pro) which isn't opening up on my desktop PC or my laptop. Both computers recognize that the drive is in, as you can see in the picture here, but I can't seem to open the damn thing.
Last thing I had done with it before it stopped showing up on My Computer was to drag a file over to my desktop (USB was formatted to NTFS).
>Issue was the same on my other PC
Yeah sorry, somehow managed to miss that in your OP.
But like >>19950 suggested, could be the disk is boinked. Is it too late to get an RMA?
I'd be leery of saying that just because the drive is hosed on two systems means the exact same thing is happening on both systems.
I've seen people who have screwed up their USB stack in Windows in such bizarre ways (updating USB chipset's firmware with a version that doesn't actually support their hardware, updating to chipset drivers downloaded from odd little hole-in-the-wall websites promoted by spamvertising, etc.) that it screws with some or all of their flash drives, and those drives are still screwed when you plug them into another system - but you can perform data recovery on the 2nd system.
If you're in a different environment/system and photorec/testdisk/insert-data-recovery-software-here still can't make heads or tails of the drive then its probably toast.
I see a lot of screwed up USB flash drives though, so I'm leery of making broad pronouncements. Most of the time the hardware is just plain toast. Sometimes if I try a variety of systems - which means a variety of USB chipsets (in other words, different make/model systems) - one of them will work well enough to recover the data. But sometimes it's what I just laid out - the drive got screwed up in their original system, and while it's still inaccessible when they plug it into other systems the raw data is accessible to data recovery tools on them.
It doesn't see the drive.
I sent in a request for one. The packaging says it's a lifetime warranty so...
, image conundrum.gif
Okay, I have a problem. I have several hundred images from a website. However, in an attempt to prevent users like myself from easily saving them for later offline viewing, each image has been split into 9 images of uneven dimensions. I've managed to use flashget's gallery builder to automate a great deal of the downloading process, so I've got all the chunks on my hard drive now. But they're still in chunks. Does anyone know of a way for me to automate the reassembly of these pictures and save them as .pngs? (to avoid further degradation from another compression pass) Additionally, the dimensions in the illustration I've made are only for one image. Each one has different final dimensions, and different block chop sizes. I greatly appreciate any assistance you can give me.
I'm sure you could do something about it with imagemagick and a bit of (shell)scripting.
If you save the pieces of each individual image off to a folder, or give each image a unique prefix (e.g. image1-part1.jpg, image1-part2,jpg, etc.), then theoretically you could use software intended to piece individual photos together to create 3D panoramas. They're designed to examine all the images, find edges and overlap, then piece them together into a single image. One problem is you wouldn't want any perspective correction done, but sometimes that's implemented as a filter that can be disabled.
It won't help if the images are all jumbled together in a single folder with no rhyme or reason to what they're called and which image they belong to, since it will assume unrelated images are, in fact, related and try to stitch every image together.
i'm using the fusion emulator for sega genesis/gamegear/ms/cd/32x roms but i can't get some (about half) sega cd games to run. the bios screen boots up and it gets as far as the "produced and or licensed by sega" screen. i am using 1.10 for the us, and 1.00 for europe and japan (as you have to set up the bios for all 3 regions). I was thinking that trying 2.0 might help but i can't find the 2.0 bios for japan anywhere. was the sega cd model 2 even released there? to my knowledge it was.
For me, when they've been iffy, I've either had to set the region manually or use an alternative ISO to get them to run. Beyond that I've never had problems running Sega-CD games.
I'm assuming you're using the latest version of KegaFusion.
>For me, when they've been iffy, I've either had to set the region manually or use an alternative ISO to get them to run. Beyond that I've never had problems running Sega-CD games.
where do you get your roms? i've been using romhustler.net. I tried romnation and emuparadise for the roms that aren't working but i'm not even getting bin/cue files from them.
>I'm assuming you're using the latest version of KegaFusion.
i solved it
i had to enable perfect sync
Hey /halp/. Bought a monitor off Craigslist. Plugged it in through VGA and I get this odd ghosting, where text has this odd glow to it. I've plugged the same computer into a monitor at the same resolution and refresh rate, and it was perfect.
Monitor model is Acer x223w
Computer model is Acer Aspire One 725-0487,
Radeon 7290 graphics.
Other than that, the monitor's perfect. The guy said he was using it on Windows 8 like me on DVI and it worked fine, he's suggesting I get a VGA to DVI converter. Please halp!
Try a different refresh rate.
Try a different VGA cable.
Try a different resolution.
Try resetting the monitor to factory defaults
I hope you (and he) realize that while DVI-I ports can be adapted to VGA with a simple adapter that connects the VGA pins buried in the DVI-I port to a female VGA connector on the end of the adapter, the same cannot be done in reverse. Going to VGA to DVI requires an expensive converter (e.g. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011401&p_id=8214&seq=1&format=2 ). It would be cheaper for you to just buy a different monitor.
Ghosting on LCD and TFT monitors are almost always caused by either a bad vidya cable, a video driver, or noise coming from somewhere. Do what >>19859 says and you'll get love.
I've seen students in schools fuck with a display's contrast/brightness/color gamut settings to the point where on-screen text looks bizarre, even over a DVI connection, and a nice factory reset is the fastest way to care of that.
Any time you're dealing with used equipment a factory reset is a good idea. It's normally available through the on-screen menu. In fact if you're evaluating a used monitor before purchase, resetting it can expose if settings have been severely tweaked to approximate a normal image on a malfunctioning display.
I have a D-link DHP1320 and currently have wired to it. The router is also connected wirelessly to a blu Ray player, 2 other computers and an x-box.
Security is set up to filter/ Accept only certain MAC addresses.
is here any way to shape the traffic on this system so it gives more priority to certain systems when in use. (the Blu ray over the xbox for example) and how would I set this up?
Yes, it appears you haven't understood the basic principle involved in linking to a post. Stop that.
TCP packets have a number assigned to them, and your router is detecting that the packet coming back in has the wrong number assigned to it. A sequence is just a progression - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 - and the firewall is seeing that the packet coming back has a number assigned to it that's out of sequence. For example, instead of being 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5, it's 12. Or 6. Typically this doesn't mean a whole lot now, since firewalls, routers, QoS systems, etc. routinely mangle TCP packets, but back in the day it could mean someone had totally half-assed a man-in-the-middle attack.
You're probably running BitTorrent and didn't forward the proper ports.
So I woke up this morning and booted my computer, and my Logitech G500 doesn't work. Blinking red light and not responding. Alright, I'll buy a cheap 8 dollar mouse for now. Plug that in, and that doesn't work. Fuck with the drivers as much as I can, no luck. Updating didn't work, neither did installing. The replacement mouse however did work during my UEFI setup screen. So I decide to try a restore point. I do that and end up with a black screen next boot. CTRL+ALT+DEL not working, explorer.exe didn't work the one time I was able to get CTRL+ALT+DEL to work.
Running Windows 7.
Any help appreciated, I'm lost with this one:/
I just wana play vidya
Could be bad connections in the case
can you boot in safe mode?
give a list of processes
getting any blue screens?
I've never seen a restore point fix anything, I honestly don't know why they even bother to have that shit enabled since it doesn't cover enough of the system to do anything useful. It's like they live in an all-Microsoft world where nobody ever adds software to their system and just uses built-in applications. That's the only thing it can save you from.
If the keyboard isn't working, try unplugging it, waiting about 10 seconds, then plugging it back in - to a different USB port - and waiting about 60 seconds, before trying again. THe waits are for the system to "realize" the USB device is gone and to realize it's present and the install the device.
I would guess that your fucking with drivers is probably what caused the escalation of the situation, coupled with the restore point (now you have third party software that wasn't touched by the restore expecting a system configuration that doesn't exist anymore thanks to the system restore).
I would certainly start with >>19919 suggestion, which is to shut the entire thing down, pull it apart, then put it back together again. Unplug your power supply from the wall, disconnect the power leads from your motherboard, pull out your video card, disconnect your motherboard battery, remove your RAM, disconnect the USB headers (used by front-facing USB ports), let it sit for 5 minutes, then plug it all back in and make sure everything is solid.
Otherwise, well... if you have your install media you could try reinstalling...
anyone know how to fix this problem?
+12V is 7.9V
I don't know what to make of that. I don't think your system would even boot if it was that low.
Do you know anyone relatively geeky? Someone who'd have a multimeter? You could get a manual reading on the 12V leads coming off the power supply with it.
Otherwise you could try getting a power supply tester. Generally the more you spend the better they get, at least in terms of reliable reading. You could spend $15 and get one that works sometimes, spend $30 and get one that works most of the time, or spend $45 and get one that works all the time (though at that point you could've bought a multimeter).
If you have a 2nd system, so you're not going to be devastated if Windows doesn't install correctly, you could just ignore it as a bad reading and go ahead with an upgrade install. If it fails to install, buy a new power supply, preferably a quality unit like Corsair.