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Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)05:03 No. 21808 ID: a38aee

File 143520139237.jpg - (233.96KB , 558x486 , 7e553288532eb401b27d1999a32bf2f7.jpg )

I've moderately fucked myself as I just installed a new MB on a win7 system and now it won't boot. I have tried switching the SATA to both IDE And RAID with no luck.

I want to keep this instal of the OS if possible and know there is a way to do it with a windows rescue disk /USB as well as the MB drivers on USB but am not exactly sure how to go about it.

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)05:41 No. 21810 ID: 10d6c2

The correct way to do it is to run sysprep on the installed OS before swapping motherboards. After sysprep finishes you shut down, swap boards, and on first boot it detects all hardware from scratch.

Under XP you could perform a repair install of Windows on top of the existing install, which effectively does the same thing. Microsoft removed repair installs from Vista and everything since has inherited that mistake.

You could try running startup repair but that's not likely going to work.

The root cause of the issue is that you need to have Windows load the non-PnP driver for your new HD controller at startup. Currently it's loading the driver for your old HD controller (and all other drivers), finishes loading all drivers, looks for Windows and can't find it, so it reports boot_device_inaccessible or the equivalent. In theory if you could inject the new HD controller driver into the install it could at least find Windows, but often times the new & old drivers will conflict and cause a BSOD all by itself.

Sorry buddy, but as far as I know you're gonna need to swap in the old board, or at least bring up your old board with the OS install long enough to run sysprep.

I moved my Win7 install from an AMD AM2 to an Intel Z97 using AHCI & sysprep. If it can handle that drastic of a hardware change it can handle whatever you've got (although putting the new controller in AHCI mode is strongly recommended for that first boot, unless you want RAID mode or whatever - have it in the mode you want on first boot and you should be fine).

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)07:13 No. 21811 ID: 6e3068

I still have the original system the Hd was in.
What are the chances I can put it back in that then do what you suggested?

Anonymous 15/06/26(Fri)02:47 No. 21816 ID: 10d6c2

Provided you haven't seriously mucked with the OS install, it should boot right up. Then you just need to run sysprep and shut it down.

I should probably mention that most DRM systems get very upset when your hardware changes like this, so you will likely need to reinstall games and the like. Everything else won't give a shit.

Anonymous 15/07/08(Wed)00:40 No. 21840 ID: a72700

Okay. I had taken it to the shop and assumed they would do this. They didn't and use some sort of third party program - which didn't work. They had never heard of sysprep. Anyway I forced them to do it ( which is why you should do things at home...
BUT now my system won't connect to the net. Any suggestions? I just get " local area.connection doesn't"t have valid IPConnection"

Anonymous 15/07/08(Wed)00:55 No. 21841 ID: a72700

UPDATE: IT will connect directly but not through the router. My room mates connected (wired) and my IPad has a wireless connection. - my PC has a wired connection.

Anonymous 15/07/08(Wed)00:55 No. 21842 ID: a72700

UPDATE: IT will connect directly but not through the router. My room mates connected (wired) and my IPad has a wireless connection. - my PC has a wired connection.

Anonymous 15/07/08(Wed)05:16 No. 21843 ID: 245f5b

If you have not try removing the wireless connection and add wireless device.

Anonymous 15/07/09(Thu)07:40 No. 21847 ID: 5e1030

I would try removing the network card, installing the drivers, then let it redetect the network card. If the network card is just an inf and drivers (no setup) then change the existing network card's driver to yours.

You could also try disabling IPv4 or IPv6 and seeing if it gets out to the internet that way.

On the plus side it's booting, which is half the trouble. Once you get the network figured out it's just a matter of downloading/installing drivers until the new motherboard is fully working.

Anonymous 15/07/09(Thu)08:10 No. 21848 ID: 5e1030

Wait a minute, this sounds familiar. Are you the same guy with the Zotac who had similar connection issues?

Anonymous 15/07/25(Sat)20:23 No. 21898 ID: 5d3666

D: 5e1030
I am actually.
I managed to fix it by :
(and here's a bit of crazy)
I connected an old iPad 1 have into the USB port of the router. Then used it to log into the router and entered the MAC address of the PC.
It worked.

Since then I've also upgraded the firmware (it's an old D-link DHP 1320) to the "latest" 1.01NA (from 2013)
and instituted an actual password for the wireless.

Anonymous 15/07/28(Tue)03:45 No. 21900 ID: 10d6c2

Unless the iPad was jailbroken there's no way for that to work.

You would be far better off just disabling MAC filtering altogether, it hasn't been a useful feature since, well, forever.

Anonymous 15/07/28(Tue)04:17 No. 21901 ID: fbedd9

Not quite related but a fun experiment y'all might find interesting:

I've been trying Windows-10 on my old PC, 32bit Intel single core, DDR2 128Mb NVidia graphics card. A real old gaming rig from back in the days of yore.

Recently built a new PC, quad-core, AMD, DDR3 a completely new breed separated by 10 years of RnD. Well, my HD has yet to arrive, since the whole things assembled and SATA is backwards compatible the little voice in my head said "'wolf it". Pulled the hard-drive and plugged it in the new rig. Well call me a strawberry and punch me pink!!! The bloody thing booted without a problem straight into the OS (minus a 30 second "loading drivers" screen") no preparation was done, no additional media was required, plug-and-play, yeah, that's right... Windows 10 is plug-and-play... which for an OS is impressive in all manner of welds.

Anonymous 15/07/30(Thu)10:52 No. 21902 ID: 4ce07e

If both HD controllers were in SATA mode then it could have just been bootable even under 7, but I have yet to fuck with nor even read much about 10 (beyond that god-awful wifi sharing feature) so I know little about its boot process.

Anonymous 15/08/01(Sat)10:47 No. 21904 ID: 245f5b

>You would be far better off just
>disabling MAC filtering altogether,
>it hasn't been a useful feature since,
>well, forever.

Aside, couldn't one see if a mac address,
device, is trying to connect when it should
not be at any given time?

Anonymous 15/08/02(Sun)12:52 No. 21906 ID: 4ce07e

There are tools out there that will impersonate the router, de-authenticate the system with the legitimate MAC address (so its no longer connecting to the ap/router because the ap/router just told it to go fuck off), then switch to that device's MAC address and connect to the actual router in it's place. After that point the system with the legitimate MAC address will no longer be able to connect, because the other device has an active session and only one device on the network can have the same MAC address at the same time.

MAC filtering is worthless. If you want real security implement 802.1x, with MAC filtering you're just creating more work for yourself with nothing to show for it.

Anonymous 15/08/04(Tue)04:49 No. 21907 ID: 5d3666

Well it worked..
Plugged the USB into the router USB port and connected to the router and changed settings.
No. 21901

Good to know but I'm staying clear of Win 10 for now. I don't like the fact that it can turn on security features (as well as a lot of other stuff)
No. 21906
I've kept the MAC filtering but also have instituted a password.
I do have a bit of oddness as sometimes my comp (which has a wired connection) completely drops contact. I need to reboot bot the modem and router (in that order) to get connected again.

Anonymous 15/08/05(Wed)05:49 No. 21912 ID: 10d6c2

Sounds like a problem with either your modem and/or router. Probably the latter. I'd replace the latter with a router that supports an open source firmware like Tomato, OpenWRT, or DD-WRT. If the problem keeps happening then you know the modem is a piece of shit.

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