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Anonymous 15/07/03(Fri)23:09 No. 21825 ID: 6513f9
21825

File 143595776719.jpg - (9.58KB , 246x205 , download.jpg )

Well I'm having a terrible week and it culminated with my PC randomly shutting off while I was playing an MMO. I tried to turn it back on and nothing. I swapped out the power cable and tried again and it started for a second then I heard sparks and it was back down, and I could smell smoke afterwards. I have an old PSU laying around and I tried to install that and it didn't, still nothing. I built my PC about 3 years ago and I think most of my parts are still under warranty, but I'm not even sure what to claim warranty on as I'm not sure which part is not working. I just know it isn't the power supply. Possibly the motherboard? I'm not even sure how to troubleshoot, as its not like I have a spare processor lying around to swap out with, or a new motherboard.

I'm honestly just considering piecing the parts out to sell and build a totally new PC. I guess I would find out which part doesn't work when I have an angry person yelling at me. I've been considering a new PC for awhile. I suppose I can always use some of the parts from my old build, such as the HDDs. I really want a case under 6" but it seems the only cases that qualify are server cases. Any suggestions? Has to have an external 5.25" bay and 2 expansion slots for a video card.

It's interesting to note that at the same time my PC went down, our router/modem went down as well. That was because the wall plugin was only half way in, which I think may have caused my problems...


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Anonymous 15/07/03(Fri)23:37 No. 21826 ID: 6513f9

Now that I think about it, since the PC does click on for half a second or so, it must be the motherboard. If it was the CPU, the BIOS should still be able to display an error. Same with the GPU or one of the HDDs. I'll have to look up my warranty on that.


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Anonymous 15/07/03(Fri)23:37 No. 21827 ID: 6513f9

Now that I think about it, since the PC does click on for half a second or so, it must be the motherboard. If it was the CPU, the BIOS should still be able to display an error. Same with the GPU or one of the HDDs. I'll have to look up my warranty on that.


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Anonymous 15/07/03(Fri)23:49 No. 21828 ID: 6513f9

>>21827
Idk why that posted twice.

Well I looked into it and the warranty for the Gigabyte motherboard I bought lasts 1095 days, which passed just 28 days ago. Thats nice... Now I'm debating whether I should just buy a new motherboard or try to find buyers for all the other things and build a brand new PC. I really want to switch to Intel, I really want liquid cooling, I really need a new gfx card, and I really want USB3.1. I think I may just get active on eBay again.

Just for the record, I currently have a AX760 (with an older TX750), a FX-8150, 2x1TB Black drives, 1x4TB Black drive, a 256GB SSD and a Zotac GTX560. The faulty motherboard I blame is a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3.


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)00:37 No. 21829 ID: 6513f9

Ok I'm basically talking to myself at this point.

I'd get more money if I just fixed my PC and sold it as a whole. I can get a replacement mobo for $110. The only problem is, what if it isn't the mobo? If it was the processor, there would be an error message right?


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)00:57 No. 21830 ID: 5530ae

>Ok I'm basically talking to myself at this point.

It sounds like it's your PSU or Mobo. Unfortunately without a diagnostic kit or components to swap out you're shooting in the dark.

Let's start with the basics. Unplug and remove everything on your mobo (Cards, fans, RAM, PSU, CPU, everything!). Power on the PSU, is the fan spinning? Connect it to your mobo, does it POST? Add Your CPU, retest, stick of RAM, retest. Add everything one component at a time until something fails. If something's blown it could be shorting when it powers up killing the whole system.


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)01:36 No. 21831 ID: 6513f9

>>21830
>It sounds like it's your PSU or Mobo
Well then its the mobo. Like I said, I had an old PSU and tried that and had all the same issues.
>Power on the PSU, is the fan spinning?
Its actually one of the zero-RPM fans, where it only spins under high load, so that wouldn't really work even if it was working. I'd have to plug a fan in or something.
>Connect it to your mobo, does it POST?
I haven't disconnected everything, but I was figuring that if it was the CPU, DIMMs, GFX card or HDDs then the mobo would still POST? So it has to be that?


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)01:38 No. 21832 ID: 6513f9

>>21831
>If something's blown it could be shorting when it powers up killing the whole system
Ah just read that part. I'll try to in a bit, but I'm very suspect that its the board.


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)03:23 No. 21833 ID: d2a2eb

OP here. I disconnected everything, so just psu and mobo. It started up fine, so then I connected my original psu and same issue. While I was hooking up my replacement psu again I noticed my original psu had a cable slightly unplugged, so I fitted it in and reconnected it and it worked fine. I was then adding things 1 by 1 till I got to the gfx card. I put it in and got the same issue. Took it out and it boots fine, back in and it shorts out. So the gfx card must be bad, and I must've accidentally unplugged the modular cable when I was messing around in there?

Bummer, a new motherboard is cheaper. I've been wanting a GTX970/980 for awhile, but I've been putting it off. It makes sense as I was playing Elder Scrolls Online while running Smooth Video Project, so I'm sure it was a stress test... I'll finish hooking everything else back up later, then order a new gfx card, thx!


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)03:40 No. 21834 ID: e74f27

>>21833
>I'll finish hooking everything else back up later, then order a new gfx card, thx!
At this point I'd suggest trying your card in a different system. There's still a chance it's your PSU and the increased power draw is what's triggering this. If both PSU's are rated the same and you get the same results for both when the card's in/out then it leaves only the card at fault. Personally I'm inclined to think it's the card but since you're on a budget it's cheaper to spend time checking than it is to buy replacement parts.


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)06:01 No. 21835 ID: 8a3fac

>>21834
That's actually what I did when I was switching back and forth. I thought that it was my original psu but when I had the older one plugged in I plugged the gfx card in and same problem, so I figured it wasn't the psu.

Like I said, I was stressing the card pretty hard, and it definitely seems like it got fried. The warranty on the card actually expired a year ago, so I guess it's just time for a new card. If the extra power usage was the problem then I should get the same error when I get the cpu in. I doubt I will, but we'll see.


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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)08:55 No. 21836 ID: ccecab

Ok, everything is back in except the GPU and its running fine. I've picked out a GTX980 online, and I'm just hoping its not too advanced for my PC (not requiring a BIOS update or anything). All my drivers were up to date on my PC when it shut off so I figure I can just pop it right in and go? I've been wanting to get one for awhile and been putting it off, I guess I just need to get one now...

Sidenote, I noticed the GTX980Tis came out not long ago. I was really thinking about getting one because 2800+ CUDA cores sounds great. But there isn't a reference design cooler by EVGA, and I like the even 2048 cores in the 980. Not only that, but the 980 should be able to blow anything I throw at it out of the water, and the core clock on the 980 is a bit faster than the 980Ti.


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Anonymous 15/07/11(Sat)03:33 No. 21850 ID: 662584

Well my GTX980 came in today. Everything seems to be working fine except for my 4x4GB DIMMs. Windows is saying that I only have 8GB available. I ran the memory diagnostic and no errors were found. I already checked to see that the Maximum Memory option for Windows 7 was unselected.

If I open up the resource monitor, it says that I have 8189MB memory total, but 12288MB installed. I already checked to see that all 4 DIMMs were properly installed and they are because...

If I open up PerformanceTest by PassMark, then shows me all 4 DIMMs with their MFR and timings.

Under system settings it says I have 12GB of RAM installed with 8GB usable. Any ideas on how to get it to recognize my last stick and make the last 8GB usable again?


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Anonymous 15/07/11(Sat)04:36 No. 21851 ID: f47635

>>21850
Nice to see it was the card spannering it up. As for the RAM:

-Reboot your computer with Maximum Memory ticked then again with it unticked to make sure it's set properly.

-Make sure memory remapping is enabled in the BIOS

-Start playing around with stick positions. Reinstall your memory one stick at a time and make sure it's recognise each individual by booting up and adding it to the tally, sometimes you get sticks which have a 'preference' for certain slots (this most commonly happens after burning in RAM), if that's the case you may have switched the order when looking for the prior problem component and brought this issue to light.


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Anonymous 15/07/11(Sat)09:52 No. 21852 ID: 3fa052

>>21851
I tried the first option, didn't work.

I tried to do that but I do not see that in my BIOS options. I have a GA-990FXA-UD3.

Trying that now. I was trying to find a software option as my DIMMs lie directly underneath my giant heatsink. I also have dual channel, so I can't simply run 1 at a time. I tried 2 and I'm only getting 4GB of memory right now (4GB on one stick, 2GB unusued on the other). I'm making sure to use matching MFR dates, as I would've installed them together in matching slots (for dual channel). I'll try to switch these to the other two and see if that works.


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Anonymous 15/07/12(Sun)09:42 No. 21853 ID: b1aacd

>>21852
UPDATE: Well I ran RAMMon by PassMark and its the first thing to show the correct amount of RAM installed. I'll add a link to the report on the bottom of my post.

I could've sworn I remember buying 1600Mhz DIMMs yet BIOS and RAMMon both show them all as running at 1333Mhz. I also remember reading the label on them that said "1.65v" but then both report 1.5v being supplied.

I went into BIOS and upped the speed to the 1600Mhz they should be at and forced 1.65v into them and restarted and my BIOS reset the settings due to boot issues from overclocking, so it says.

So not only am I not getting the full amount of space that I'm supposed to be getting, what I do have is running slower than its supposed to. What on earth am I supposed to do about this? Kingston says they have a lifetime warranty, but I just got my computer working again, I really don't want to decommission it again. Especially for a warranty claim, as I've heard they can take a very long time.


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Anonymous 15/07/12(Sun)09:44 No. 21854 ID: b1aacd

>>21853
Oops, forgot the link, its kinda a mess though
http://pastebin.com/09cB9ZWa


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Anonymous 15/07/13(Mon)22:15 No. 21857 ID: 10d6c2

>>21853
Check the Memory section of the BIOS for a setting called "auto tweak" or something to do with XMP. DDR3/1333 is the standard. Everything above that is an XMP profile, and systems don't use XMP unless they're configured to. I did a quick skim through the manual and didn't see anything but I may have missed it.


Gigabyte maintains "memory support list" which is a list of DIMMs they've tested with the motherboard. If you stray from this list, you're rolling dice as to whether it'll work or not.
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5353#dl

Now keep in mind there's apparently been six revisions to that board, so you'll probably want to verify what version yours is so you get documentation relating to it and not (in theory) an earlier/later version.


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Anonymous 15/07/15(Wed)22:20 No. 21859 ID: 33ca83

>>21857
I didn't see anything about XMP. Would XMP also cause my memory to be undervoltage and recognized as 4Gb less with 4Gb more unusable? I don't see why XMP would've changed by installing a new GPU.

I haven't checked that list because again, the exact same DIMMs worked fine with my GTX560...

My motherboard is rev1.1. Also I tried updating to the F10e beta BIOS, but it didn't help...


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Anonymous 15/07/19(Sun)01:03 No. 21876 ID: 5e1030

>>21859
Without XMP your DIMMs will simply run at the fastest specification speed, which for DDR3 is 1333. Everything above 1333 requires an XMP profile.


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Anonymous 15/07/19(Sun)13:49 No. 21881 ID: a0998f

>>21876
Well I don't see it on my BIOS so what an I to do? Not only that but all the DIMMs were at 100% with my GTX560, before I had to remove everything from my PC to debug (read OP and following). Unless installing a new GPU changed XMP somehow?

And still, would a bad/default XMP result in the memory being undervoltage and underutilized. If no, I want to fix that before I worry about something like XMP...

When I was in my computer I noticed it could've used a clean so I'm probably going to do that tomorrow... I doubt it'll help but hey, who knows...


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Anonymous 15/07/20(Mon)00:34 No. 21883 ID: 38acda

>>21876
>>21881
Heres an update: I did some research and I think that EOCP is the same as XMP?

In that case I've tried setting to both DDR1600 and Profile1 and neither changed the voltage, the speed, or the capacity so I don't think that is it...


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Anonymous 15/07/20(Mon)10:56 No. 21888 ID: 5e1030

>>21881
What I suspect is that your problems weren't just limited to the GPU, whatever nuked your GPU also nuked other components. Now that you replaced the GPU the other component failures are exposing themselves.

My last AMD system had a setting under memory called "Auto tweak DIMMs" or something similar, but that was a DDR2 system. It worked similar though, let me jump from 800 (fastest stock DDR2 setting) to 1066 ("overclocked").



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