-  [WT]  [PS]  [Home] [Manage]

[Return]
Posting mode: Reply
  1.   (reply to 121896)
  2. (for post and file deletion)
/tg/ - Tabletop Games
  • Supported file types are: GIF, JPG, PNG, WEBM
  • Maximum file size allowed is 5120 KB.
  • Images greater than 200x200 pixels will be thumbnailed.
  • Currently 2889 unique user posts. View catalog

  • Blotter updated: 2011-01-12 Show/Hide Show All

There's a new /777/ up, it's /gardening/ Check it out. Suggest new /777/s here.

Movies & TV 24/7 via Channel7: Web Player, .m3u file. Music via Radio7: Web Player, .m3u file.

WebM is now available sitewide! Please check this thread for more info.

Printing your own games/books Bitbug 17/05/10(Wed)08:33 No. 121896
121896

File 149439800376.jpg - (27.45KB , 408x450 , 28334405-colonial-printing-press.jpg )

Can anyone suggest the most cost effective color printer to use to print your own game parts or full RPG books? To take into account the cost of the printer and ink/toner/wax refills. In addition, what binding methods for books works best? Coil binding? Sewn binding? Discuss!!


>>
Anonymous 17/05/10(Wed)10:35 No. 121899

My suggestion is to NOT buy a special printer at all. The most cost-effective way is to have your books printed at your local UPS store or Office Max or equivalent.
Visit as many print shops as you can in your local area, ask a ton of questions about printing capabilities and binding options, and cultivate a good business relationship with the store personnel by being friendly and giving praise when it is earned.
The co-owner of my local UPS store does amazing work and has produced books for me that are identical if not superior to ones I have purchased from LULU at comparable prices. She has even produced multiple copies of a 64-page saddle-stitched black-and-white rule book with a full-color cover in two hours and didn't charge extra for a "rush job."


>>
Anonymous 17/05/10(Wed)10:38 No. 121900

I usually use Lulu to make them. With a discount code or two (sometimes you get lucky and they stack, so you end up with like 35% off and free shipping) and a bit of practice making covers you can make high quality stuff that's virtually indistinguishable from the real deal.


>>
Bitbug 17/05/10(Wed)12:23 No. 121902

Really? I've looked at the prices at my local print shop and Lulu (without codes) and the price to print is pretty damn similar to buying it off the shelf or MORE in many cases. I'm an old bastard that prefers print and I've got thousands of PDFs. I'd think that after paying for the printing of say a dozen of these, I'd already rival paying for a printer?


>>
Anonymous 17/05/10(Wed)14:12 No. 121904
121904

File 149441834856.jpg - (14.59KB , 404x194 , epson.jpg )

>>121896
I have an epson L355 printer (jet ink) and print my books at home, colored. My Mage M20 (about 700 pages) I spent about $ 8.

Pic: So far, I've printed almost 30k of sheets.


>>
Anonamoose 17/05/10(Wed)16:23 No. 121907

I use coil/comb binding, and overall I'm pretty happy with it. For small books it takes up a bit more shelf space, but anything over about 100 pages it comes up pretty even.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/11(Thu)04:54 No. 121947

>>121904
With an ink jet can you print on both sides without bleed through or damp paper?


>>
Anonymous 17/05/21(Sun)05:03 No. 122580
122580

File 149533581758.jpg - (4.65MB , 4608x3456 , P1090001.jpg )

>>121947
If you use 75g (plain paper) paper it does not look so good. The thicker the paper, the better. I advise paper 90g or 120g.

PIC: Iprinted my M20 on plain paper and did not like the result. But even so, it was very good and I used it more than a year.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/22(Mon)04:42 No. 122638

I'd recommend a color laser (if you can get someone with a xerox documentcenter type to charge you their cost, you're golden)

When I make books, I usually do 5.5x8.5. I use an older version of multivalent https://github.com/tsibley/multivalent-tools to reorder the PDF into 2up signatures of 8 sheets each.
From there, there are a bunch of hand binding guides (sewing the signatures together, and then gluing the stack)

Makes a pretty nice book in the end (I suppose you can go all out and finish the bind, I never had the patience.

The largest single book I've bound is Spirit of the Century.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/22(Mon)09:09 No. 122648

If you will be spending US$XXX for the printer, the ink, the paper, and the binding, why not get a tablet?

In a matter of 10 books or so, the cost will be similar, if not, the Tablet will be cheaper.

Tablet:
1.) Cost effective in the long run;
2.) You get to do other stuffs like facebook, google search, play games, etc...
3.) Handy and light weight, easy to carry around your library of books;
4.) Environmental friendly and you save trees.

Just my two cents.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/22(Mon)23:01 No. 122668

>>122648
>>If you will be spending US$XXX for the printer, the ink, the paper, and the binding, why not get a tablet?

Haptics. I actually prefer dead wood. People are different though and I know quite a few people who are with you.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/23(Tue)12:25 No. 122708

>>122648
Again...old eyes, staring at tablets kill me. If they'd come out with an E-INK style, non-back light that did PDFs half decent in large format I'd be all over it. Until then, I prefer reading off the printed page.


>>
Anonymous 17/05/27(Sat)19:33 No. 122957

Epson EcoTank or Canon Megatank, thoughts ?


>>
Book printing James Bonner 17/06/01(Thu)00:32 No. 123235

I use a canon MFC-J985DW. 65.00 on ebay. Prints doublesided. Proinkstore on ebay has the refillable cartridge and ink for 38.80. The ink will refill the cartridges about 6 to 7 times, replacement ink is about 17.00 for a set. Prints about 500 pages doublesided per set. Maybe more. I then use a coverbind machine costs between 35.00 to 100.00 on ebay, the covers cost about .50 in bulk. Cheap, efficient, looks good.



[Return] [Entire Thread] [Last 50 posts]


Delete post []
Password  
Report post
Reason