Plot points are the life blood of the game, they're just as important as the dice mechanic, the game isn't MHRP without them flowing.

The game is very jargony, make sure you know the difference between a Resource, Asset, Push, Stung, Ect. Read the rule book, read it slow and make sure you understand what they're talking about.

Make sure the players know what they can do with their plot points. Make sure you know what you can do with the doom pool.

For the first few games, give them suggestions on what to spend their plot points on, or how to get them.

I also found it's very helpful to lay out index cards on the table with the scene distinctions as they change between scenes. I also put index cards out for various assets and resources, either next to the characters datafile, or in the middle of the table if the asset or resource could be used by more than one person.

Also, there are a lot of ways to stress out an opponent. The game does not just need to boil down to attacking till they're unconcious. Make sure your players understand that, and change tactics accordingly.

Also, go to the MHRP website and read the forums, there are a few rules clarifications Cam has posted there. They've helped me make sense of a few things I didn't quite get.

not sure if ur interested but my thread had modern paper terrain that u cud use to ahve 3d elements for the super game if u were interested in that as well

Sticky notes are helpful at keeping track of resources and complications. Being a Watcher in Marvel Heroic is more about wrangling and time management than anything else. If the players seem to be blazing through your campaign way faster than you want them to, throw a random villain at them to slow them down. If they are taking too long, you can spend part of your doom pool to bring everyone into the next scene, or toss them some free plot points just to get them to do something.

I think there are several games that cover the core of Fallout rather well. By which I mean humans and near humans across a range of tech levels. I see three tricky spots.

1) The gonzo stuff around the fringes. like giant intelligent talking rats that demand cheezy poofs. In a tabletop these can end up the focus of the campaign. Not all games focus well on both crazy over the top and more mundane stuff.

2) How closely you want to stick to the Fallout setting. Plot related perks, like becoming heavyweight champion, will require some planning ahead of time. Likewise factions of NPCs contesting control over a town, even if they are just sitting around waiting for the PCs to upset the balance. Not many games help a GM handle this kind of thing at all.

3) Level of mechanical detail. The video games are really rather crunchy. Ammo tracking, encumbrance, drug effects, vehicles, character levels, hit locations, action points, radiation levels, and so forth. Different games track more or less details, so consider whether your group would rather play fast and loose, or detailed and crunchy.

I'll second GURPS, with the caveat that you'll have to slog through and chop out all the stuff you don't want. I'd recommend Barbarians of Lemuria + Barbarians of the Aftermath if you want a light game that covers all the major points. Alternity is reasonable. Savage Worlds probably has something that would work. Gamma World (the one based on D&D 4e) if you want to go really wild (all cheezy poofs all the time).

sort of funny, I'm planning to take over GMing for our group for the first time soon, and we're running PathF. I thought it might be cool if the players ran into a portal to Goodsprings in New Vegas after they reach level 8 or 10 maybe. I'll need some experience as GM before trying it, but it should be cool.

I imagine you could run a game stylistically similar to Fallout with nearly anything with a bit of work.

First off, while you may not like the one rulebook, some fans did an "update" to bring it up to speed with Fallout 3 and some of New Vegas. These rules are a bit cleaned, but still a bit frustrating. You can find them (and other tabletop variants) here:
http://www.nma-fallout.com/forum/dload.php?action=category&cat_id=63

Second, I will second using Alternity. It may be a bit clunky for some, but it will work and there's plenty of settings that will work. As any game, the mechanics may interfere with the feel of the setting, though.

Third, SPECIAL was based on a variant of GURPS. That being said, I'm not a GURPS fan, and wouldn't use it.

Fourth, have you taken a look at Deadlands: Hell on Earth? The setting is similar, only with magic-like things tossed in. The original version of the rules, with deadly combat and location-based wounds, fits in perfectly with what we see in the newer Fallout games. Otherwise, take a look at the new Hell On Earth Reloaded using the Savage Worlds settings.

Fifth, there's a collection of RIFTS settings that could work to get you started, "After The Bomb" being one of them. I'm not too bit on RIFTS, but some people just never can get enough of it.

Sixth, World of Darkness (old and new) may be versatile, but I don't think it has enough grit to be a Fallout game. Some useful mechanics, but overall doesn't really capture the feel of it.

Finally, you can easily tweak most generic systems to make characters within a setting, but the mechanics may impact the actual FEEL of the game. The various d6 series (d6 Space and d6 Adventures, primarily), Savage Worlds, Cortex (either Battlestar Galactica or the new Marvel, depending on preference), Tri-Stat, FATE, PDQ, etc.

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0xCoins, about the warping from gluing the print outs to cardstock/cardboard: I used to do it that way a lot as well. Just place them upside down and iron them (no steam, if it's that kind of iron) on medium heat.

Or, do what I started doing and print right onto card stock. 110lb. is cheap ($9/Free shipping for 250 sheets from Amazon) and great for cards and standee characters, but might not feel thick enough for gameboard pieces if you're used to something thicker. For gameboard pieces I use 140lb. or 160lb., both of which should work in most printers. Printing directly onto the stock saves *SO* much time, and even produces a better looking finished product.

>>46776

My god, huge thank you for getting demons rulebook, as well as the rest of the original components!

I tried getting it from scrib using the method suggested by a user here, and it didn't work. But thanks to him/her, for suggesting.

Anyway, whoever you are, I owe you one. If you're the same person who replied my first post, again, thank you VERY much. I appreciate your help.

Anyway, for those interested, you can find an upgraded graphics of demons on it's page on boardgamegeek.

>>46778
When I say 110lb. I mean 110lb. *cover*, which is way different from 110lb. cardstock. I've recently realized how completely retarded paper measurement is in American.

To be safe, just go with the European method, which is to measure by grams per meter squared:
Normal copy paper is 70 to 90 g/m2
A nice picture book would use 200 g/m2
Cereal box cardboard is about 300 g/m2
So on and so forth.

If you want I could type out all of that, but give me a few minutes. Also let me know anything you'd like in it, and also if its something you'd be interested in at all.

You'd honestly be better off sifting through the event coverage for stuff like that. That's what I did when I used to play.

http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx

Grand Prix and PTQ's are probably going to have the freshest builds for things. I would recommend staying away from building card-for-card of PT decks, since people will be predicting your moves and countering you.

>>38971

This turned out to be just about what I was looking for:

http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Archive.aspx?tag=TopDecks&description=Swimming%20With%20Sharks

Listing of current decks and what they do to make them win. Naturally there's some expectation that you know the lingo and as some one who played back in the 90's and looking to see what the environment is like now it's a little daunting/confusing.

FUCKING NOWHERE, THAT'S WHERE

Oh anon, so drole. Hairy Tarantula has an OK selection in Toronto. So does Bayshore hobbies in Hamilton. There is one or two good places in Kingston and Ottawa whose names escape me.

Unfortunately you are probably better off buying online from either Iron wind metals or off of ebay. The distributer for Battletech in Ontario is really bad and your order may take months to be processed.

YOU WANNA REQUEST SHIT, START YOUR OWN DAMN THREAD

BUT THIS PILE 'A SHIT OF A THREAD RIGHT HERE IS STRICTLY LIMITED TO BATTLETECH

>>37476
THANKS FOR THE BUMP THOUGH

At various times during the lifetime of the legacy format (mostly early on 2005-07) the guy you have pictured here gave the gas to a whole lifecycle of goblin decks.

Merfolk with its countermagic/aggro has mostly superseded, and proved superior in terms of science.

We all mourn the guy though. The deck was ridiculously OP, like most things in the format back then. Legacy now is tame and mature compared to what it used to be then.

Which of the two games would make a better xcom table top experience?
15mm.
And what about terrain.
my girlfriend is obsessed with doing solid large scale table dioramas for boards. I would be happy with tiles.

>>38199
The gameplay is very, very similar in Infinity and XCOM: few minis, reactions, tactical combat...

The miniatures are 28mm and you need lots of scenery, so your girlfriend will have fun.

Here's a video with some gameplay: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXaYw7uPafM