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A few things that might help get those questions answered faster.
Be specific when you are talking about something - "my mp3 player is broken HALP!?"
- What kind of mp3 player, (brand and model)
- What isn't is doing now that it was before (the reason it is "broken")
- What were you doing to it last, right before it broke.. Did you maybe drop it?.. get it a little wet? try to flash the firmware?!
These all help in determining what can be done.
These rules do not just apply to MP3 players.
Just be as specific as possible and don’t leave stuff out, we want to be helpful here, try not to make it a scavenger hunt for clues!
These same rules apply for other situations like “I got a new motherboard and now my computer doesn’t post!”
-old motherboard model
-new motherboard model
and any other component you might have in there (most of the other stuff usually won’t matter but list what you know.
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On this side of the pond it certainly is, at least among the kind of people who give a crap. I don't, but assholes are gonna be assholes.
The joy of driving a 20 year old car is none of that fucking shit applies. Though in most states they're not allowed to pull that thanks to regulations.
I have been messing around with aircrack for the first time. Everything works until I get to the handshake... I made sure my card supports packet injection (pic) but after I run a deauth (regardless of how many times) it's not showing the handshake.
I was running "aireplay-ng -0 0 -a [Access point's MAC addr.]" to deauth because no client or handshake is showing, it works but still no handshake.
If I continue I get a "read(file header) failed: Success" error, or an error saying no valid handshake in the .cap file.
Is it something I'm doing wrong? Is there something I'm not seeing? I have been trying Google but nothing that really helps. Usually I just see threads that suggest more consecutive deauths and it's never really resolved.
Well I've tried various different APs and when I try to attack the capture file with Pyrit it says no handshake found. I figured maybe it was capturing it but not showing an Aircrack. I also tried capturing the handshake with wifite and I'm having the same issue, no handshake.
Does that mean it's just my wireless card, even though it says it supports packet injection?
I forgot to unroot my Samsung GT-S7562 (Android 4.0.4) before restoring it to factory setting and not it won't turn on after the "choose your language" screen. I can't enable USB debugging because it's just a black screen
Do you really think I would be there if I had the money to take it to a repair shop?
I managed to go into recovery mode, did "wipe data/factory reset", rebooted but it's still the same, a black screen with a taskbar on top (clock, wifi etc).
So, you've wiped everything and done a factory reset to no success. Just checking, you've taking the sims and any memory cards out. If so it's not something you've got connected borking it up....
Guess you'll have to try refreshing the firmware then, Samsung have a tool for that (ODIN) but you'll have to do all the googling yourself. You're on your own form here on.
Here's a start:
And one last thing, have you actually tried leaving your phone on the blackscreen after selecting a language? Mother-of-god help me if I find you're just too impatient to wait for it to load!
I left it for like half an hour or something, is it enough?
I took out the cards right at the beginning.
And thanks for the link.
I'm building a new PC (budget gaming rig) and trying to keep the cost below $800. I find that omitting a paid OS (Windows 7 Ultimate) is a great way to achieve that goal.
Unfortunately, from what I've read, the new(ish) UEFI bios makes it difficult to do that with Daz Loader. Am I going to have to drop some part quality in order to get a paid OS (which would likely be the cheaper Windows 7 Home Premium) or does anyone have experience with this?
PS. I don't have the computer parts to order, it's still within the building process and likely won't be done until after thanksgiving, but I'm pre-empting this now since I know how slow the board is.
It's an alternative to Daz's Loader.
I don't entirely understand how Daz requires "fucking around" though since unless you're dealing with a GPT formatted disk (>2TB) it's ridiculously simple to use.
Like Daz, though, it's important that you get Windows Toolkit from the official source, since these things are essentially rootkits, capable of doing anything. Downloading them from popular (or not-so-popular) torrent sites is a recipe for disaster - unless the author posted it there.
For instance, there's a couple websites offering direct download links for the toolkit... are they connected with the official group? One of them could be. The other certainly isn't.
So I appreciate the warnings and mysteriousness of it, but could you be so kind to link me to the legitimate one? In fact, if someone could explain to me the step by step process of it, that would take a load off my shoulders.
To be honest, I don't know WHAT site is legitimate for that project. For all I know both sites I found were put up by eastern european organized crime outfits and include wonderful payloads.
Daz has been posting his stuff directly to this site for ages now:
Always use an MD5/SHA checker to verify the file you downloaded matches the checksum he posted.
Keep in mind that site also includes links to Windows Toolkit, but again, I don't know enough about that project to know if they're actually the group posting the links to that forum or whether it's a third party posting the links.
Okay guys, I have literally 100s of thousands of pictures, saved throughout my channer career.
I am looking for a good free picture organiser. Very preferably one that can process huge amounts of pictures without raping my RAM(or at least without raping it too much).
Also, how do you organise your pictures?
You're going to want VisiPics. It's a duplicate image finder that's small and doesn't use a ton of resources. Won't really help you organize, but it will definitely help you shave down the amount of crap you have to sort through.
I use digikam. It's originally made for photographers, but works just aswell for my vast collection of cute anime girls.
/halp/, I'm working with a client and he seems to be having this error whenever he closes out of Adobe Acrobat. The program works and functions fine but this error message continues to pop up whenever he exits the program. I couldn't find anything so I was wondering if anyone has a possible solution?
, RSIDUP2587 2014-10-02 11_49_45.png
Here's what it says.
1. yes, having IE as primary isn't good (you can tell by shortcut icons)
2. not Windows 98. 7 with classic shell and classic start button
3. you can see it was resized, but OP reposted in 1280x1024 which is close to minimum for 7
now, for OP's question. you should really not use older versions of Adobe Reader. it's hazardous (unpatched security holes) and new features will not be supported, possibly resulting in crashes like the one you're seeing.
best solution is go to add/remove programs. remove adobe reader 9.5. reboot.
go to adobe site and install latest version of adobe reader
if you want to skip jumping through the hoops (download manager, mcafee free bundle) go straight to the ftp site and download it. I presume you want the English US version
if not, there's versions in german, french, spanish, and japanese too
I agree he should upgrade, but he doesn't have Acrobat Reader, he has Acrobat. It's the difference, in current product terms, between Adobe Reader XI and Acrobat XI Pro.
If he can get by with the more limited feature set of Adobe Reader then he certainly would be better off using it. If he can't, then he probably needs to fork out some cash.
While his version of Reader currently has all known security holes patched, it also has a history of problems on 64-bit systems.
Switch to 32-bit Windows, switch to Adobe Reader, or upgrade to Acrobat XI Pro.
, msi G series logo.jpg
What's up /halp/, visitor from /vg/ here and I hope you can give me your thoughts/advice
I'm currently building my First gaming PC, and I'm looking at various parts/choices/options etc
Since this is my first time of actually building a system from scratch I decided to go to a couple of PC service/building places in my relatively small town and ask for advice, most of them are, of course, full of clueless people who have no idea what they are doing, however I managed to find one place that's run by this guy who is a middle aged, balding, Polish guy and has been building PC systems for like 15+ years
I told him of my plans and how I'm planning to spend around 1-1.5k Grand (euro) for a powerful gaming system and the one thing which was interesting was seeing his eyes when I said that I'm considering getting an ASrock MLB, he said to never even consider ASrock as it's (in his own words) "Not good enough to wipe my ass with"
He then said how ASUS and Gigabyte are good choices but the best choice is MSI since, they apparently use "The best components" and they are "The most reliable"
At the moment I'm considering starting with the MSI Z97 Gaming 5 Intel MLB and their GTX 970 Graphics card but I just want your opinion regarding this, was he telling the truth or just bullshitting me about all of this? is MSI really the better choice when compared with other alternatives?
I don't have a horse in the race, but the best advice I heard is read general reviews before anything else. The thing is, everyone is subject to Cognitive Dissonance. Person buys part X from brand Y, never has a problem with part X, therefore brand Y is "the best" because they want to feel like they made the best decision.
Likewise, person buys part X from brand Z and it doesn't work, and forever labels brand Z as gutter trash because he might have had the one defective part out of 10,000.
Unless an expert can tell you exactly why brand Y is better than brand Z (as opposed to generic terms such as "most reliable" or "best components"), just take it as personal opinion. It can be valid but don't accept it as the only resource.
General reviews, though you might have a few outliers, will give you a good idea of what to expect. If 400 people rated it 4.5/5 then it's probably decent enough to use. If the general consensus is 2/5, then maybe they are on to something.
This guy has the right idea.
The top tier parts manufacturers tend to be Gigabyte, ASUS and MSI.
Choose whichever motherboard has all the features you want at the best price you can get.
Those three make SKU's of motherboards that are similar enough in terms of features that you can really just pick the feature level and go with the cheapest manufacturer.
He most likely said that MSI is the best because they advertise that they use "Military Grade Components" and "Japanese Capacitors" with a "20 Year Lifespan."
You probably won't be gaming or overclocking this rig in 20-30 years time so it doesn't make a difference. Also, that's advertising. It's meant to make you want to buy it.
ECS, ASrock, etc are lower tier motherboards that often perform just as well, but their first releases in a line often have BIOS problems, bad RAM support, new CPU incompatibility and so on that plagues early buyers. This is why they get a shitty reputation.
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In theory a guy who builds whitebox PCs for a living would get familiar with a lot of different manufacturers.
Back when I was building a few hundred whitebox PCs a year, I certainly got very familiar with almost every manufacturer.
Of course my current system at home uses a motherboard from Foxconn that I absolutely despise, but so long as you don't look at it funny it works well enough. When it breaks (usually after the battery runs low and CMOS values start drifting) it's a fucking nightmare to get POSTing again. Replacing a motherboard without reinstalling the OS is enough of a pain that I've avoided fighting that battle for years...
My rule of thumb is that if product X is advertised as a "gaming" product that means it's overpriced. And, often, doesn't work as reliably as a non-"gaming" product. That works across all manufacturers, too.
I'm trying to get the disconnect add-on working in Seamonkey 2.29
I've been following the instructions here: http://forums.mozillazine.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1355415 and here https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/Add-ons/SeaMonkey_2
And I added this code to the install.rdf file:
<!-- SeaMonkey -->
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My old hd got corrupted because my old motherboard had come to the end of its life cycle and could not handle all the files I had on that hd corrupting it as it proccesed it..
May be that dosn't make sense but that is what my friends who works at IT said.
external enclosure + TESTDISK
Should I do that with the real disk or can I use I disk image I had?
I don't even. . .
I'll just leave this here
Boot that CD with HDD plugged in, if the filesystem isn't too badly damaged then CAINE will let you mount it and possibly recover some files.
If the filesystem is badly damaged then you should try TESTDISK which is built into CAINE.
There are newer versions but older hardware doesnt like them in my experience.