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/halp/ - Technical Support

/pr/ is back! All programming needs go there.

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There's a new /777/ up, it's /selfhelp/ - You're Pathetic, We're Pathetic, We Can Do This! Check it out. Suggest new /777/s here.

Movies & TV 24/7 via Channel7: Web Player, .m3u file. Music via Radio7: Web Player, .m3u file.

WebM is now available sitewide! Please check this thread for more info.

Recomended Reading Smurfer ## Mod ## 09/08/01(Sat)01:50 No. 3145 ID: b315cf [Reply] Stickied

File 124908421528.jpg - (75.06KB , 347x364 , Halp.jpg )

A few things that might help get those questions answered faster.
Be specific when you are talking about something - "my mp3 player is broken HALP!?"
- What kind of mp3 player, (brand and model)
- What isn't is doing now that it was before (the reason it is "broken")
- What were you doing to it last, right before it broke.. Did you maybe drop it?.. get it a little wet? try to flash the firmware?!

These all help in determining what can be done.
These rules do not just apply to MP3 players.
Just be as specific as possible and don’t leave stuff out, we want to be helpful here, try not to make it a scavenger hunt for clues!
These same rules apply for other situations like “I got a new motherboard and now my computer doesn’t post!”
-old motherboard model
-new motherboard model
-ram (speed)
and any other component you might have in there (most of the other stuff usually won’t matter but list what you know.

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Anonymous 15/05/22(Fri)06:21 No. 21786 ID: 10d6c2

>I think you meant the 50/60 Hz frequency divide
I do believe you are correct.

That's what I get for writing before I've had a few cups of coffee.

Anonymous 15/07/03(Fri)23:09 No. 21825 ID: 6513f9 [Reply]

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Well I'm having a terrible week and it culminated with my PC randomly shutting off while I was playing an MMO. I tried to turn it back on and nothing. I swapped out the power cable and tried again and it started for a second then I heard sparks and it was back down, and I could smell smoke afterwards. I have an old PSU laying around and I tried to install that and it didn't, still nothing. I built my PC about 3 years ago and I think most of my parts are still under warranty, but I'm not even sure what to claim warranty on as I'm not sure which part is not working. I just know it isn't the power supply. Possibly the motherboard? I'm not even sure how to troubleshoot, as its not like I have a spare processor lying around to swap out with, or a new motherboard.

I'm honestly just considering piecing the parts out to sell and build a totally new PC. I guess I would find out which part doesn't work when I have an angry person yelling at me. I've been considering a new PC for awhile. I suppose I can always use some of the parts from my old build, such as the HDDs. I really want a case under 6" but it seems the only cases that qualify are server cases. Any suggestions? Has to have an external 5.25" bay and 2 expansion slots for a video card.

It's interesting to note that at the same time my PC went down, our router/modem went down as well. That was because the wall plugin was only half way in, which I think may have caused my problems...

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Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)01:36 No. 21831 ID: 6513f9

>It sounds like it's your PSU or Mobo
Well then its the mobo. Like I said, I had an old PSU and tried that and had all the same issues.
>Power on the PSU, is the fan spinning?
Its actually one of the zero-RPM fans, where it only spins under high load, so that wouldn't really work even if it was working. I'd have to plug a fan in or something.
>Connect it to your mobo, does it POST?
I haven't disconnected everything, but I was figuring that if it was the CPU, DIMMs, GFX card or HDDs then the mobo would still POST? So it has to be that?

Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)01:38 No. 21832 ID: 6513f9

>If something's blown it could be shorting when it powers up killing the whole system
Ah just read that part. I'll try to in a bit, but I'm very suspect that its the board.

Anonymous 15/07/04(Sat)03:23 No. 21833 ID: d2a2eb

OP here. I disconnected everything, so just psu and mobo. It started up fine, so then I connected my original psu and same issue. While I was hooking up my replacement psu again I noticed my original psu had a cable slightly unplugged, so I fitted it in and reconnected it and it worked fine. I was then adding things 1 by 1 till I got to the gfx card. I put it in and got the same issue. Took it out and it boots fine, back in and it shorts out. So the gfx card must be bad, and I must've accidentally unplugged the modular cable when I was messing around in there?

Bummer, a new motherboard is cheaper. I've been wanting a GTX970/980 for awhile, but I've been putting it off. It makes sense as I was playing Elder Scrolls Online while running Smooth Video Project, so I'm sure it was a stress test... I'll finish hooking everything else back up later, then order a new gfx card, thx!

Anonymous 15/06/28(Sun)17:52 No. 21820 ID: d67c1a [Reply]

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Hello, I have a problem with my internet connection.
Basically, it can cap at around 1800-2000kb/s, but when i let it go that high my internet frequently disconnects and then reconnects after about 8 or 9 seconds.
To combat this, I went into my PC's network settings and set the cap to 10mbits(so it caps around 1000/1050kb/s) Now i experience no problem with disconnection at all, but I missing out on 800-1000kb/s. What could be wrong and how can i fix it? I've already had COX replace my router, and that did nothing.

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Anonymous 15/07/01(Wed)09:18 No. 21822 ID: d67c1a

Well they basically told me it had something to do with my houses wiring and they would need to re-wire the house and get permission from my landlord, and they said that might not even fix the problem. Thank you i will try my own router.

Anonymous 15/07/02(Thu)23:33 No. 21823 ID: 245f5b

qwest/centurylink kept having routers go out, send another same model, like 5, more, routers fail. They sent routers without refreshing or removing old account setting, so an SSID would have like blablaevil whatever as an SSID.

I talked with a woman and said, we cannot keep getting these routers
that fail in a short time, that the routers had not even been reset to
defaults on most. That most had stuff
on them and were faulty from the start. So after a bit she said OK, I will have them send a new model. You will not have issues with it. And got it shortly after, brand new stable model.

Some goofball I had talked to after adding a service, tv, had a few issues with set top boxes, multiple times. He said resetting the router will break the
set top boxes, I asked or stated so what then, they were bad before I restet the router, while you yourself said to reset the router? Blabla bla he had an attitude
of the most pathetic way. They charged
like $200.00 bucks saying they came out
on a service call and found nothing wrong. Yet found two set top boxes
and the modem/router to be faulty.

The replacements did work well and work well to this day and had them refund the fake service fee with an apology and little hassle.
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Anonymous 15/07/02(Thu)23:45 No. 21824 ID: 245f5b

Definitely your own router is a good idea. If it goes out though you would have to make sure you look at warranty
info through the manufacturer. Keep receipts and all. My guess the router is faulty.

If not the line running to the house could be the issue, inside, watch out so they would not charge you or even your landlord for the repair. Or at least
know that they would test the line
before it reaches the house. ISPS can be ripoffs.
You can usually find suitable routers modems at thrift stores for like 12 bucks, 3 bucks.

Anonymous 15/06/26(Fri)23:04 No. 21818 ID: ade12b [Reply]

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We're all aware that Windows 10 is being released for free by the end of next month, and I'm honestly a little excited about it, too.

I just want to ask a question to those of you who are deciding to upgrade to it: will you be upgrading on day one, or will you wait? Why?

Anonymous 15/06/27(Sat)01:25 No. 21819 ID: 8969c2

It's only free to those on Win 7/9, if you're on Vista or earlier (XP master race reporting in) you have to cough up.

I actually made a post on /jew/ and linked it from here on how to get Windows 10 for free using the windows insider program. Some mod decided to delete the posts in my absence for reasons that will remain unknown to us.

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)04:54 No. 21807 ID: a38aee [Reply]

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I got one of those shitbox ZOTAC Z-boxes from a friend and have just had it sitting around as I didn't really need it. Now my actual comp is in the shop and I started playing around with it.

Problem is I can't get it to connect to the net via the router - just directly plugged into the modem. The wireless can "see" the router but it needs to have the computers MAC address before I can even enter the password.
If I plug the cable into the router I can see (but not access ) my roommates computer (wired connection) but can't see the router or the net. In the Network Connections folder I can see a WAN Miniport (PPPOE) -disconnected the Local area connection Realtech controller which if enabled tries to identify a connection and the wireless one.


2 posts omitted. Click Reply to view.
Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)23:04 No. 21814 ID: efd857

I can only see (and not connect) to the router via wireless. When it's plugged in to the router it can't see the router (but can see but also not connect to my roommates computer) otherwise I would have entered the MAC.

Anonymous 15/06/26(Fri)02:03 No. 21815 ID: 10d6c2

>it needs to have the computers MAC address
Disable MAC filtering on the router. It is an absolutely worthless security feature, since your MAC address is broadcast in the clear, for everyone within range to see. Anyone wanting to gain access to your network will just sniff MACs from data passing to/from the existing systems, clone one of their addresses onto their card, then use it to get onto your network. It will only stop 10 year olds and grandmothers, and maybe not even.

Disable this feature and you'll likely get a little further.

In case you're confused as to how to do that: use your roomate's computer for 30 seconds to configure the router.

When you plug in the Zotac over Ethernet, do you get an IP address? How about a default gateway? Subnet? If you disable IPv6 on the Zotac do you get any further?

Anonymous 15/06/26(Fri)19:21 No. 21817 ID: 10d6c2

Upon further reflection I'm going to take a wild guess and say that your router assigns good DHCP leases, with the correct default gateway, etc. to MACs it knows about and everyone else gets incorrect or partial information that doesn't let them get out to the internet.

You could have also enabled 802.1x authentication, but if you did I would hope that you would remember it, since that requires substantially more effort than simply checking a box.

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)05:03 No. 21808 ID: a38aee [Reply]

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I've moderately fucked myself as I just installed a new MB on a win7 system and now it won't boot. I have tried switching the SATA to both IDE And RAID with no luck.

I want to keep this instal of the OS if possible and know there is a way to do it with a windows rescue disk /USB as well as the MB drivers on USB but am not exactly sure how to go about it.

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)05:41 No. 21810 ID: 10d6c2

The correct way to do it is to run sysprep on the installed OS before swapping motherboards. After sysprep finishes you shut down, swap boards, and on first boot it detects all hardware from scratch.

Under XP you could perform a repair install of Windows on top of the existing install, which effectively does the same thing. Microsoft removed repair installs from Vista and everything since has inherited that mistake.

You could try running startup repair but that's not likely going to work.

The root cause of the issue is that you need to have Windows load the non-PnP driver for your new HD controller at startup. Currently it's loading the driver for your old HD controller (and all other drivers), finishes loading all drivers, looks for Windows and can't find it, so it reports boot_device_inaccessible or the equivalent. In theory if you could inject the new HD controller driver into the install it could at least find Windows, but often times the new & old drivers will conflict and cause a BSOD all by itself.

Sorry buddy, but as far as I know you're gonna need to swap in the old board, or at least bring up your old board with the OS install long enough to run sysprep.

I moved my Win7 install from an AMD AM2 to an Intel Z97 using AHCI & sysprep. If it can handle that drastic of a hardware change it can handle whatever you've got (although putting the new controller in AHCI mode is strongly recommended for that first boot, unless you want RAID mode or whatever - have it in the mode you want on first boot and you should be fine).

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)07:13 No. 21811 ID: 6e3068

I still have the original system the Hd was in.
What are the chances I can put it back in that then do what you suggested?

Anonymous 15/06/26(Fri)02:47 No. 21816 ID: 10d6c2

Provided you haven't seriously mucked with the OS install, it should boot right up. Then you just need to run sysprep and shut it down.

I should probably mention that most DRM systems get very upset when your hardware changes like this, so you will likely need to reinstall games and the like. Everything else won't give a shit.

New graphics cards Anonymous 15/06/09(Tue)23:45 No. 21797 ID: 11fdd1 [Reply]

I'm coming across some decent money soon, and I want to update my current graphics card so I can play games better. That, and the recent Fallout 4 update had given me a slight panic attack with me thinking my computer can't handle it.

I currently have an old Nvidia GeForce 9500 GT. What would you guess recommend would be a good upgrade, and let's just say I'm on a fixed budget with this, so where can I get one at a good deal?

Anonymous 15/06/20(Sat)03:21 No. 21803 ID: 10d6c2

Unfortunately under $100 Nvidia cards are complete shit. From what I've read the GT740 is basically a GTX 550 that's been defanged a bit. I bought one and am still absolutely shocked at just how slow the damned thing is at doing just about everything.

Anonymous 15/06/21(Sun)07:20 No. 21804 ID: 583674

EVGA makes the GT740 superclocked. On benchmarks(for Linux btw) it scores like a slightly less power-hungry GTX650. Can't say I'm disappointed with it.
Although depending on your mobo, processor(I'm assuming you won't be doing a new build from scratch) and budget I'd recommend something a little more powerful. A GTX750 at the least would be nice if the price climb from the 740 superclocked isn't too big where you live.

Anonymous 15/06/25(Thu)05:24 No. 21809 ID: 10d6c2

I have one, and it's the GDDR5 version (which is supposed to be slightly faster than the DDR3 version), and compared to the 7750 I had in there before it this thing is absolute shit. It represents a good 75% drop across the board. I bought the GT740 for $100, I bought the 7750 for $100 2 years ago. Why the GT740 isn't even that decent is a mystery.

Unfortunately my new system @ work doesn't provide as much power over the PCIe slot as the old one, so I opted for one that used PCIe power. Rather than discover the new system is equally annoyed at any non-Nvidia card I opted for the 740.

For two years I had the 7750 in the old system and used it without incident so it's not a hurrdurr ATI driver issue. It's just Lenovo devolving into shittier shit. And to head off the inevitable argument on that front: nobody bigger than a mom & pop is going to build a whitebox for their employees. I build them for home, my systems there are wonderful, work with everything, but this is what I'm stuck with at work.

The 740 has two things going for it: The system no longer hard freezes in the middle of the night/weekend while I'm connected to it remotely (or even if I don't - it's an equal opportunity freezer). And I get PhysX support. Woo. I have multimonitor support, which I had under the 7750, but didn't have under the Nvidia card the system came with (I don't know why - see: Lenovo).

Not freezing and multimonitor is about all I care about, but I had to see how good the card was too. You are bearing witness to my surprise. My expectation was equivalency. The posted benchmarks were equivalency. In reality it's worse.

Audio Editing FocaJeanGabriel 15/06/21(Sun)20:37 No. 21805 ID: 1efec7 [Reply]

Some guy who is good with audio editing software can help me with this Bill Cooper radio broadcast? http://hourofthetime.com/bcmp3B/1920.mp3 If u can improve quality a bit so i can hear what Bill is saying i will love you so muck, TY !

Anonymous 15/06/18(Thu)10:23 No. 21799 ID: 993cf2 [Reply]

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Laptop doesn't recognize WiFi.

So a couple screws came off from the back of my asus s400c and its the 2 closest ones to the right hinge (looking from normal front view). Laptop still recognized wifi at this point.

When I tried to close the laptop without the screws, the right part of the screen along with the hinge completely unattached itself from the bottom part of the laptop.

I found the screws later and screwed them back on, laptop opened fine, turn laptop on but it said "No networks found" which isnt true because my phone is picking up the wifi.

In short, laptop doesnt recognize any wifi after the right hinge became unattached.
What's the problem and how do I go about fixing it?

Anonymous 15/06/18(Thu)11:36 No. 21800 ID: 974c0c

Often the Wi-Fi antenna runs through the hinge and up around the display. It may have become severed, the only way to check is to open them up and look.

Anonymous 15/06/18(Thu)14:48 No. 21802 ID: 0b64ee

Yup, the antennas are normally in the display since it's usually held at or near vertical and won't be lying flat, which makes it easier to receive & send signals (partly why routers that lie flat and use integrated antennas are complete shit).

However the card is typically socketed onto the motherboard, which is under the keyboard. Some very thin cables run from the antennas in the display to the card. Simply opening & closing the lid enough will break the wires but it sounds like you either snipped them or unplugged them.

Only way to know what's going on at this point is to open it up and figure out where they are and what they look like.

Using third-party mouse with Mac Anonymous 15/06/04(Thu)12:15 No. 21791 ID: 51e5ad [Reply]

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I'm not sure if there are any Apple users here but long story short, I don't have an Apple mouse. I figured I could just buy one since a wired Logitech mouse worked before. However, I don't have that one anymore either. I decided to buy a wireless (NOT bluetooth) USB mouse. The specific brand name is blackweb. Never heard of it before but went with it, get home and find out my Mac Mini doesn't even recognize it. It shows the "unrecognized keyboard" settings when I plug it in.

If anyone here does happen to know anything about OS X and non-Apple mouses, I'm running Yosemite.

Basically. I just want my mouse to work but see no way to support non-Apple wireless mouses.

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Anonymous 15/06/07(Sun)04:42 No. 21795 ID: 1542bf

Yeah. I'm assuming it would work with a PC though, because it has a PC driver with it and not a driver for other platforms. I've had this issue before and didn't think about it when I was buying it at the time so that's what I get I guess. I just switched it out with a wired USB mouse that works.

Anonymous 15/06/09(Tue)07:44 No. 21796 ID: 58ab24

It won't work with a PC unless you install the driver, because it implements HID wrong. If it implemented HID correctly, you wouldn't need to install the driver for it to work. On either platform.

Anonymous 15/06/10(Wed)00:56 No. 21798 ID: 10d6c2

If you were really unlucky instead of a wireless dongle you could have been given one of these:

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