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A few things that might help get those questions answered faster.
Be specific when you are talking about something - "my mp3 player is broken HALP!?"
- What kind of mp3 player, (brand and model)
- What isn't is doing now that it was before (the reason it is "broken")
- What were you doing to it last, right before it broke.. Did you maybe drop it?.. get it a little wet? try to flash the firmware?!
These all help in determining what can be done.
These rules do not just apply to MP3 players.
Just be as specific as possible and don’t leave stuff out, we want to be helpful here, try not to make it a scavenger hunt for clues!
These same rules apply for other situations like “I got a new motherboard and now my computer doesn’t post!”
-old motherboard model
-new motherboard model
and any other component you might have in there (most of the other stuff usually won’t matter but list what you know.
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>I think you meant the 50/60 Hz frequency divide
I do believe you are correct.
That's what I get for writing before I've had a few cups of coffee.
Thinking about getting 2 MSI GTX 970s for sli. Going to have 4 moniters hooked up to them. (2 17' 1 24' and 1 52' moniter). Anything I should be aware about before buying these or any other recommendations?
Technically with the 970 you're getting the same 4GB of RAM, but the last .5GB will drastically decrease performance to the point that it performs worse than if the last .5GB wasn't used at all. This is why so many games are special-casing around that last .5GB, but good luck if you're playing a game that doesn't have a special case for that model.
I dunno, if I was dealing with a piece of hardware that was bastardized to that extent I wouldn't trust the entire product, but fanboys are gonna fanboy.
First the .5Gb was locked unless you were a special case (specifically backed by NVidia and actively excluded anything to do with AMD). Then they unlocked it when people realised they weren't getting what they paid for and could potentially sue. Now developers have to deliberately avoid using that extra .5Gb to avoid shit-canning performance.
It's the prequel to nVidia Gameworks, shit-canning performance all over the place so they can lock developers into their product with the promise of "extra performance".
Gameworks is also about shitcanning performance on older Nvidia cards too. Even if your older card is vastly more powerful than a newer card, the newer card will get better performance.
The only reason developers are using Gameworks is to get a taste of that sweet, sweet Nvidia development monies. Having Nvidia work for free on your code is the same thing as paying a developer cash to hire someone to do the work. Nvidia just cuts out the middlemen.
how to install Don't Starve on ubuntu
DON'TYou could also just install playonlinux and see if it supports Don't Starve®
I have an Acer Aspire V5-571P that stopped booting to windows one night when I lost power. When I turn it on it just keeps cycling "Diagnosing startup" and "Launching automatic repair" *restarts* looping over and over.
My first instinct was to go into the UEFI bios and set the boot order so I can just reinstall windows, but when I hit F2 to enter bios I get this shit. It asks me for a bios unlock code, gives me a hint, and after three tries it changes the "hint" to something else.
How do I remove / find the bios unlock code? I called acer but they want me to mail it to them AND pay $200.
>>21973What about simply removing the CMOS battery? Wouldn't that wipe the password?
This isn't a BIOS password, this is a system lock because the BIOS password was entered incorrectly too many times. And besides, on everything except absolute shit-tier hardware they write the passwords to flash now. Remove the battery, password still remains. If you're really lucky there's a separate password clear jumper but most systems don't include them anymore, since businesses want to lock idiots from using their stolen hardware.
>on everything except absolute shit-tier hardware they write the passwords to flash
Should still try it. There's no good reason not to.
I recently became TF2 premium and I am trying out TF2 trading and I need some help on 3rd party trading sites.
I use scrap.tf for weapons but I need to sell some of my items. What do you recommend for fast buyers Anon?
I use backpack.tf its very popular.
Are there any trading strategies that actually work even when performed by a class A sperg such as myself?
I have pretty much decided that despite diagnostics I am going to upgrade/ get a bigger system HD. I'm just not sure where to begin.
I am using Windows 7.
The whole drive is like 500 Gigs and is in 3 partitions a 230 meg system drive.
A 100 meg system reserve partition that the system added during a migration to my current motherboard.
And a 250 meg partition (no this isn't all my storage space I have 2 other drives I added afterwards)
If it was just the partition with the system drive I Think I would just have to just create a System Repair Disk on a USB or something and then a system restore on the new drive. but that's only for one partition.
How would I go about partitioning my new drive to keep the current partitions (and Data) but resize the system and storage drive?
I feel like a bit of an idiot asking but really woudl like to do this myself.
If someone could spell it out in a moderately spoon fed way or point me somewhere to find this?
>> No. 21962
I'm probably moving the whole thing to a 1 TB drive as it will give me twice the space. So can I move the 250 GB System drive to a 400 GB partition?
What about the 100 meg "system reserve" drive? formatting these two would then leave me a chunk of drive I could simply clone the storage and use either Clonezilla or Parted magic to fuck around with and enlarge?
- or could you clone the whole drive on a larger drive and then fuck around with it with partition magic etc. ?
It should proportionally expand all non-system partitions on a disk if you follow the instructions on that link. Obviously if you have whole disk/partition encryption or the like enabled then all bets are off, since it won't be able to interpret the NTFS directory structure to expand the partition.
Personally the last time I had anything beyond system & boot partitions on a disk was when partitioning was the only means of controlling the block size. Controlling the block size meant you wasted less data, because a .5K file still occupied however large the block was, and smaller partitions had smaller block sizes. These days the block size is normally 4K (unless you go out of your way to change it) no matter how big or small the partition is.
So I was browsing my good old ISO folder today and noticed that I had an ISO of ReactOS.
I wondered if it was still being developed, but to much of my surprise the project looks dead.
Does anyone know more about this?
well theres still some thing going on with it but thats all i know, since you brought it up. i looked and had found that they have a youtube community page. and its really active. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMo8NP-2oP35rauon-Duc9Q/videos
Is it possible to get the drivers from one linux distro and use them in another?
I recently got a cheap chromebook and the only distro that the trackpad works with is ubuntu, which I really don't want to use.
I used the lsmod command and put the output of that into a .txt document, and I did the same for mint distro.
I compared the two, and the output for what ubuntu used was sdhci module used by sdhci_acpi.
Does this sound about right? And if so, could I get the module and use it with another distro?
have you enabled nonfree drivers on other distros to see if it pulls in what's needed to make the trackpad work?
ok, so I'm getting ready to swap Hard drives in my PC and reinstall windows. since I have the opportunity, I am planning to install windows 8.1, moving from windows 7, however, I'm out of practice with warez (and maybe a bit too paranoid) and I don't know how to crack 8.1. Any help or guides would be appreciated. In exchange, have this magnificent picture of a gold dragon at their study.
It really doesn't matter, if you're a gamer or power user you can optimize windows 10 so its not fishing the shit out of your info and for extra speed and less background processes.
Its fast as hael when you optimize it.
And as an added bonus you might - might - be able to stop 10 from uploading all information about all wireless networks within range to a Microsoft server that the CIA/FBI/NSA/TLA can access at any time.
The general rule of thumb for 8 & 10 seems to be to use a KMS emulator, which emulates a KMS server that Windows checks in with periodically to ensure it's been properly licensed. KMS servers are typically used by businesses large & small for the software they've licensed from Microsoft, so their internet connections don't get clogged up with licensing traffic.
make win7 to be better to suit your needs. professional is what you want.
My external HD just crashed.
I got a weird message saying a file was not working in the HD, and suddenly I couldn't access it anymore. I couldn't turn off/on the pc with the thing plugged in either.
When I connect the HD the system recognizes it but the names of the files don't flash on the screen anymore. And as soon as I try to open it my pc freezes.
Lifehacker site says this is probably caused by "degraded magnetic media" (bad sectors). Says I should let a pro handle it. Is this true? What should I do? I need my data back...
You could try creating an image of the HD using free digital forensic software like FTK Imager.
It's ok OP, just plug in that daily backup of all your important da-oh.
I had really good success saving a sketchy hard drive (that still spins up) using Spin Rite.
Burn the image to a CD and boot up with it, run one of the auto fix things. It's not free.
Also you can try Stellar Phoenix Data Recovery Professional. It works inside of Windows so you don't need to boot it up. it's also not free.
If this is too confusing, just bring it to a shop.
Buy two HDDs of identical size, make backups often. I use Karen's Replicator by KarenWare. it's free.