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A few things that might help get those questions answered faster.
Be specific when you are talking about something - "my mp3 player is broken HALP!?"
- What kind of mp3 player, (brand and model)
- What isn't is doing now that it was before (the reason it is "broken")
- What were you doing to it last, right before it broke.. Did you maybe drop it?.. get it a little wet? try to flash the firmware?!
These all help in determining what can be done.
These rules do not just apply to MP3 players.
Just be as specific as possible and don’t leave stuff out, we want to be helpful here, try not to make it a scavenger hunt for clues!
These same rules apply for other situations like “I got a new motherboard and now my computer doesn’t post!”
-old motherboard model
-new motherboard model
and any other component you might have in there (most of the other stuff usually won’t matter but list what you know.
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>"how long is the safety distance from an ungrounded or neutral grounded electrical outlet to a fireplace? Second question: why?"
Fun question, and this stems from the fundamental philosophical difference what comes to handling ungrounded and grounded receptables.
Just look NEMA family receptables and plugs and compare them to Schuko falily, see: in NEMA, an ungrounded appliance can be plugged into a grounded receptable, which is what one would expect, but in Schuko it's counterintuitively the opposite: grounded plug fits into ungrounded receptable but the prongs (or the center pin, if you like baguette) prevent inserting ungrounded device into a grounded receptable.
The logic behind this engineering decision goes, I believe so, that ungrounded receptables are to be installed only into dry indoors locations, where the surroundings are not conductive (so called class 0 environment), which means that should the the insulation fail in a metal-bodied appliance, the shock most likely. would not be fatal.
From this follows, when a safety grounded "class 1" device is inserted into an ungrounded receptable, it just becomes equivalent to a class 0, so theoretically the safety should not get reduced by doing so. On the other hand, class 1 is outdoors and generally other conductive environments, where the shock currents would travel more throught the victims body.
(Class 2 equipments are double insulated or made of non-conductive material, hence they have the slim "europlug" that fits into a grounded receptable.)
With this knowledge, we can get back to the fireplace. As it happens to be, fireplaces may have a large, metallic "ember tin" or what ever you call it in in English in front of them, which can be conductive (I think the current code explicitly requires it to be connected to the main grounding bar), so the area 1.8 meters from the tin is considered class 1, ungrounded receptables prohibiten.
Hey guys i was just asking which is the best way to build a computer?
All under 1000 bucks is fine (especially for games)
Buy parts, put parts together, enjoy coverage from individual part warranties.
Or buy prebuilt system from tier 1 manufacturer (e.g. not CyberpowerPC), and have someone to call when shit stops working.
It is pretty simple and self explanatory to build a PC.
Things you will need to get up and running:
Things you will want:
FANS AND HEATSINK
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I'm sure after 6 months OP is still waiting with bated breath for a response.
What is a good free program to make disc images out of a hard drive for back up?
I was told to use Drive Snapshot but its not free.
>>What is a good free program to make disc images out of a hard drive for back up?
dd would be my recommendation. But it's not for Windows, however, the fact of the matter is Windows likes to obscure and stop you messing around with system files so the operation should be conducted by another OS anyway.
And so we come full circle. Boot a Linux LiveCD and run dd.
the ultimate boot CD has a whole bunch of them
download the ISO and burn it
then boot from it
it's under HDD, then disk cloning (there should be around 6 or 7 choices
This. It's simpler to do with the disk unmounted, anyway. Just dd if=/dev/sdb of=/mywindowsbackup.img
(I think sda would be whatever the media the live linux was booted with?)
So, gents: I'm trying to do a memory upgrade on a fairly old machine. It's Fujitsu Siemens Amilo pi 3620A; OEM shit of the lowest grade.
It has ms-7504vp-pv motherboard with nForce 630i chipset. Bios is by AMI, version 3.0L according to CPU-Z, listed "2.61" in the setup menu itself.
The board has only two DDR2 slots equipped with two 2Gb/333MHz Hynix sticks. I bought two 4Gb/400MHz sticks by Kingston replace them, and as it could be foreseen, ran into problems.
Why I'm writing you is that my system does not outright deny the chips, instead it will become unstable.
- With both sticks in, the system wont boot outright.
- When memory clock is manually set into 333MHz (667MHz in the menu), the machine will boot but Windows will give blue screen usually during startup, or quickly after. Memtest86 will show large number of errors.
- With single stick at 400MHz the system will boot but will randomly lock sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes after an hour or two.
- With single stick at 333MHz the system is stable. Both sticks also pass memtest86 individually.
So, what would you suggest? I have rounded up the possible causes to four, from most to least possible:
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Nope, it almost fried his motherboard. It was dead in the water until I disconnected it from power long enough to discharge, with the motherboard battery disconnected, then powered it up w/o RAM or CPU plugged in. Anything less than that would result in it not even getting far enough in POST to beep a failure code. Once that was done, power was removed, CPU reinstalled, RAM reinstalled, battery reinstalled, and it passed POST.
I should probably mention that, as far as I know, he's still using that system to the present day w/o issues. Still running XP, even.
One of these days he's going to connect it to the internet and be in for a whole world of unpatched pain, but I've spent the past several years scrupulously avoiding any mention that he could add a wireless card/device to it for internet connectivity.
Call me cruel, but I just don't like having my phone explode.
Thanks, man. Plenty of keywords to google with.
Given the the sticks fail memtest86 only after some time at random pattern test, do you thing 630i actually tries to drive them (with address width double the buses are rated for?), or is there some other things that gives the impression of "almost kinda working"?
Thinking about getting 2 MSI GTX 970s for sli. Going to have 4 moniters hooked up to them. (2 17' 1 24' and 1 52' moniter). Anything I should be aware about before buying these or any other recommendations?
Which AMD do you compare this with?
970? You mean the "4GB" cards that are actually only 3.5GB cards?
The R9 290X seems to offer roughly comparable performance at a lower price point, and has 4GB to the 970's 3.5GB (a difference of 7GB vs. 8GB if you're looking at two cards).
Is it possible to create a stored procedure that will pull data from an external hard drive and restore that data to my database? If so how can I do this?
Assuming you're scanning a directory or pulling information from a file periodically, what you probably want is a combination of a cron'd shell script, that actually imports the data into the database, and a stored procedure, that gets triggered by the import (or is scheduled to occur shortly after the import) to manipulate the imported data.
Unless you're talking about periodically restoring the entire contents of the database from a copy that exists on the external drive. Then it'd probably just take a shell script to shut down the database instance, restore the data to the appropriate tables, then start the instance again. Or something similar. Backup/Restore procedures vary greatly between databases. PostgreSQL won't use the same script as Oracle.
Why am I getting this on Reaver:
"WARNING: Failed to associate with ##:##:##:##:##:##" (bssid)
Reaver worked for me about a year ago flawlessly. I've searched everywhere but can't find a clue. I'm using an external Atheros usb card that I know is supported.
I'm very nervous, I don't unusually look at my anus in the mirror. But I did today because I really don't know why. And I kinda pushed my anus out (like if I were trying to poop, but I wasn't)wondering what it would look like and I noticed a red thing coming out, but only when I push out. I don't know if this is normal or not. It's not that extreme. I did some research and saw it might be a partial rectail prolapse, but I'm not sure. I don't know if that happens to everyone when they push out or not. I don't want to go to the doctors all freaked out to find out that this happens to everyone. I've always had trouble going the bathroom. Please only serious responses
This seems a better fit for /fit/ but anyway, the short answer is yes, you should see a doctor. Red things pooping out of your asshole is rarely a good omen.
It's probably haemorrhoids. Mostly harmless
Anuses are naturally red on the inside. I noticed this can happen to me as well if I receive anal sex by someone with a big cock. But it will return to normal after no more than a day or two.
Also, how far does it stick out? If it returns to normal after you push, you should be fine. But if your still worried, then go see a doctor.
I installed pcsx2 1.3.0-0 on Xubuntu 14.10 x64
The game screen looks like this and the audio is either glitchy (TimeStretch synch mode) or skipping a lot (no synch mode) or demonic buzzing (when I try changing some other settings like interpolation). I have a nvidia GT440. I also have no idea how Ubuntu works because I haven't used it that much. Halp?
are you sure you didn't download a fucking corruptor
nope, this game worked fine on Windows
I haven't used a non-server (as in non-terminal based) version of Ubuntu in ages, but last time I did I had to take an additional step to install "proprietary" (read: closed-source) software, which is a good way of describing Nvidia's entire driver architecture.
Until you do that, no hardware acceleration is available, so the video card is running in an extremely slow frame buffer mode. If a software package expects acceleration to be present then you can end up with garbled video display. Not sure that's what's going on in your case, but since you don't know Ubuntu I figure that may be a good place to start.
Once again technollogy has failed me. im currently on vacation, took some pics with my digital camera and they dont show up on the camera or in my laptop. Theres a filesize but no image to be seen except for one. Any chance of recovering these pics from the microsd?
Have you image dumped the card yet? Could be the card, could be the images, further investigation is needed.
Post a couple of the *.jpegs in this thread (the working one and 3-4 corrupted ones should be enough), I'll tinker with them and see if I can get any results for you, it might just be corrupted headers.
Its definetly the card. Today all photos were gone, so I cant send you anything but thanks anyway. I guess I could try a recovery software when I get back from my vacations, if anyone has any recommendations Im all ears my only requirements are that its free and open source.
Thank god I brought some other sds.
It was an old samsung 1gb microsd that came with a cellphone. Still I thought this little shits were more reliable...
You can try using PhotoRec, it'll scan the entire card for images.
More than likely new images overwrote old images so you're looking at some data loss. Cameras are notorious for completely fucking up memory cards, if it has a problem reading a card just take it out and put another one in, then use a computer to repair the card having problems. What you've experienced is the inevitable result of expecting the camera to fix whatever problem it created in the first place.